Few fashion shows, even in Paris, will find Jeff Bezos, Ron Howard and Alex Rodriguez in their front ranks. But Tom Ford’s fall / winter 2020 revelation on Friday in Los Angeles was so full of ostentation that one had to remember that it wasn’t the Oscars.
A-Rod was pulling Jennifer Lopez by the arm. There, Miley Cyrus was taking selfies by the bar in a black suit with her very tattooed brother, Trace Cyrus. Jon Hamm passed by and came back again, in a bright blue suit of egg and birds that would have made Don Draper blush. There was James Corden, host of the Late Late Show, talking and waving his arms in the air. The Lil Nas X publicist wanted to send the rapper to greet Ford.
Meanwhile, 2,500 miles away, New York Fashion Week was grinding its teeth. While Ford entertained Hollywood with a precursor to the Academy Awards, which take place on Sunday, New York designers fervently displayed their products on catwalks whose front ranks were full of influencers and fashion editors, but not the only publisher who It really counts. Because Anna Wintour was in Tom Ford. She was sitting next to Jeff Bezos, who was sitting with her lover, Lauren Sánchez.
Even by Hollywood standards, Tom Ford’s fashion show on Friday night stood out for its power. A handful of events in Los Angeles attracts the best Hollywood players, mainly the Oscars, the Golden Globes and the annual LACMA gala. Tom Ford was full of powerful agents, producers and celebrities.
There was Bryan Lourd, the super agent and co-chair of the Creative Artists Agency, who had a brief conversation with Brian Grazer, the leading hair producer. Wasn’t that Rob Lowe, who looked punk with a shaved haircut and comfortable black leather pants, chatting with Demi Moore?
Behind the scenes, Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner and a number of famous models were preparing for the catwalk. Ford had them fresh, before the next month of fashion runs out.
The Ford party took place at Milk Studios, an industrial studio of film and photography of minimalist modernist design that is located in an area of Hollywood often known as the floors, as it has few distinctive features in addition to the grid of boulevards that frame. Ford turned several pavilions into a cocktail where his guests mixed for an hour or so until the doors opened in one of the main studios, which had been transformed into a disco.
The track was surrounded by luxurious white benches for the front row; behind them were boxes placed in elevators for maximum visibility of the designer’s collection, which was divided into two parts. The first contained a surprise, many of them, actually, in the amount of shirts and sweatshirts with cut arms, style over long lace skirts, embroidered skirts with vivid flowers, cozy sweatpants and busy design crotch that I would have seen it as haute couture if in damask instead. Track pants? Coaches? Ford is a formal type, the kind of gentleman whose spirit in itself encourages men to wear suits and ties in their fashion shows.
Sweats, especially simple sweatshirts that didn’t look fancy in design or manufacturing, were difficult to combine with Ford’s classicism, but he explained it in his show notes by saying he wanted to combine “extravagant pieces” with the casual: “The look is elegant but effortless. But the important thing is the attitude: a kind of relaxed, sensual and somewhat noisy luxury that should be used in a way that never, never seems to be trying too hard.”
Ford may not understand the high-low dressing. His floating caftans, some dyed, were works of art: the best of the collection, shown before the lights went out and the disco ball began to become “Killing Me Softly”, and Bella Hadid floated down the catwalk in a Silver beaded dress that translated all the energy of Tom Ford’s strength suit that he poured into the making of a dress.
Ford was born to design formal clothes for women and clothes for men. No wonder, when he says in his program notes: “I am a classicist at heart and for me” Black tie “means” Black tie “, not” Festive black tie “or” Creative black tie “or” Optional black tie ” .
Ford is a designer for power crowds and once you see what you can draw in Los Angeles, it is surprising that you will ever showcase your collections elsewhere. I asked about that. “If the Oscars overlap with New York Fashion Week, I will do it again,” said Ford, with a mischievous smile followed by a grimace of apology.