“We have to start from a position that cannot be compared to the past. We are starting from now on, doing our best with the current situation, ” said the president of the Italian fashion council, Carlo Capasa, Saturday. “ It’s important to give a voice to brands. Above all, do it safely. ”
Highlights of Saturday’s show of mostly womenswear previews for the next warm weather season.
ARMANI EXPLORED THE PAST AND THE PRESENT
Giorgio Armani is the first Milan designer to showcase his collection behind closed doors, taking a commando decision in February after Italy’s first local coronavirus case was detected during Milan Fashion Week. The 86-year-old designer took no chances and opened the door to guests with the pandemic still active seven months later.
“I don’t know when we will recover the formula ” from a live show on the runway, Armani told reporters during the presentation. Although he said no energy could replace a runway show, he himself didn’t mind that slack.” Honestly, if I were 30 years old I would miss him. Being years older, I’m fine like that, “he said.
Instead, he created a virtual show featuring a 20-minute film that served as a retrospective from his 45-year career broadcast not only on the internet but also on private Italian television as an introduction to the 13-minute runway show. The combined women’s and men’s collection features 60 appearances for him and 39 for men.
Armani said he feared the film was “ a little exhibitionist. … But ordinary people can hardly see what’s going on behind this kind of work. So I took the opportunity to let them see. ”
The film highlights Armani’s philosophy that it is the person, not the clothes, that should be remembered, and celebrates Armani’s innovation in the soft jacket described as a “ second skin. ” The Armani woman “ is completely without an apology herself, ” Cate Blanchett told the interviewer.
The new collection, inspired by Armani’s own legacy, features nothing but a lockdown look. The woman’s attire is rich and detailed: silk trousers, patchwork jacket, sequins and beaded evening gown, topped off with large jewelery and a gorgeous bag for an evening out. Men wear a slate gray business suit with a dark tie, or a more casual three-piece suit – with a vest as the top.
The runway show recorded in the video ended with a close-up image of a model staring at the camera steadily, instead of seeing Armani who used to bend over from the stage door. “I think that’s enough,” said the designer. The outfit includes cat-beaded details – a tribute to Armani’s own cat, Angel, who died this summer.
TV viewers were then treated to the broadcast of “American Gigolo”, the 1980 film starring Richard Gere in the exclusive Armani wardrobe.
FERRAGAMO EXPLORING THE REAL VS. SURREAL
Salvatore Ferragamo’s fashion crowds that gather under the moonlit sky on a rotunda are greeted with a soundtrack of clashing birds, then haunted by the Technicolor suspense film of wealthy city dwellers clicking up and down Milan’s marble alleyways and hidden staircases.
Creative director Paul Andrew said he spent time locking up to re-watch the classic Hitchcock suspense flick, an experience blurring the lines between the real and the unreal and inspiring his latest collection.
Oscar-nominated director Luca Guadagnino shot a short film that was shown before a live show on the runway, treating viewers to the thrilling Hitchcock-inspired scene of an empty Milan suspiciously populated by pretty young beauties in Ferragamo.
“The collection echoes the exquisite hyper-saturation level of color that is so evident in the beautiful technical work ‘Vertigo,’ ” Andrew wrote in his note. The palette is a rainbow of faint bright yellow, sky blue, lime green, light purple, and dove gray.
The woman wore a clever skirt suit that matched the eminent woman Hitchcock Tippi Hedren, a fisherman crochet mini dress straight from Bodega Bay and tufted trousers worn like a trophy after winning a bird fight. Andrew’s footwear innovations for this season include a square-toed sling-back and an F-wedge shoe that places the heel elegantly against the instep.
Men wear hollow leather jackets with baggy trousers, a jacket with a 1940s boxy jacket, and a bright trench. Soft boots are the best shoes of the season.
IMPORTANT LOOKING DROMe
The creative director of the Tuscan DROMe brand, Mariana Rosati, said, like many, that she had grown more introspective during Italy’s long and severe coronavirus lockdown. “It made me see the importance of things,” said Rosati before her live performance
The collection projects a strong feminine presence, seen in cropped tops that flaunt a midsection, miniskirts, and high-slit dresses.
The brand, which singers Cardi B and Ariana Grande love, is built around a leather heritage, and the collection features soft dresses with unexpected touches, layered leather tops or cut jackets paired with mini leg-ties. They are accompanied by parallel clothing with striped knitwear, perfect for working from home or simply squatting. Rosati blends and matches knit and leather, using a leather bra with a specific effect to give a hem to a knitted dress, or a knitted bra to soften the look of the skin.
“Right now, I feel the need to remove what is not important, to give value to that person,” he said.
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