One of the lasting memories of my first trip to Tokyo in the mid-80s is the little children at Yoyogi Park, baby clothes plates with head-to-toe looks by designers like Matsuda, walking with their parents in the same clothes with the inscription. big. That surreal vision crossed my mind as I watched the film Cass Bird made for Thom Browne’s virtual children’s clothing launch during Paris Fashion Week on Sunday.
He used his slot on the men’s fashion calendar to kick off the video, which shows that this particular brand extension is a big deal to him. This of course gave him the opportunity to flex the subversive muscles that have given him strength throughout his career. Half a dozen kids dressed in tight-fitting Browne-uniforms (shorts for boys, pleated skirts for girls) wreak havoc in one of the tight Kafka-style office spaces clipped in her presentations over the years. It came complete with a manual typewriter – Browne’s other main motif – that defies children’s understanding of the 21st century.
“I love playing with the second little moments we all grew up with, whether it’s an apple for the teacher or one day when a child throws up in class,” says Browne. Sure enough, the film reaches its climax with little Tommy vomiting all over the floor. Even knowing it was the simulacrum of yogurt, milk, and powdered granola, the spectacle was still convincing enough to provoke a bit of dry pressure from this audience. But Browne was blown away. “It was a fun and refreshing change from all the collections I made for adults.”
This is not the first time she has dressed children. She has made clothes for clients’ children in the past, but she feels it always looks like a miniature version of a straight, and she wants this collection to look like it’s made especially for children, in the right size and proportion, one difference is that it doesn’t. there is the same proportion of play as in adult clothing, since an shapeless body has a smaller proportion to play. Otherwise, there is no concession to the wearer’s pre-puberty status (6 to 12 years is the target age range). You can tell Thom Browne apart from half a mile away, with the same mix of sportswear, knits, sweats, downfilled outerwear and a uniform image that is always aligned with the main lines.
A psychologist might find Browne’s Rosebud in the uniform he wears as a quiet and shy student at St Thomas More Catholic School in Connecticut, except that The uniform features a green jacket, navy trousers, yellow shirt and plaid tie, and the designer’s signature suit, which is modeled on himself, is strictly monochrome.
He sometimes suggested that uniform liberates the individual. You focus on the person, not the clothes. Likewise when he talked about children in his films. “They are all wearing the same clothes but you can see that they all have very different personalities. That is the strongest message. I think it’s an interesting thing for kids to see. Nowadays, they use fashion as an expression of their personality. This is just the opposite. I’m not interested in pushing a fashion point of view. This classic American sportswear is well made. “
With that signature Browne touch. “I find it more unisex than boys and girls,” added the designer. “Kids are much more enlightened than we were growing up. I hope you will see little boys wearing pleated skirts. “That could be a clever commercial move. If the kid is really father to the guy, Thom Browne has already cornered his prospect.
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