Issued in: Modified:
With the pandemic forcing Paris Fashion Week online, haute couture designers have turned to top arthouse filmmakers to give their presentations a bit of a spectacle, even if some admit they are increasingly desperate to return to live shows.
In these uncertain times, the fashion world needs a touch of magic more than ever and Dior recruited Italian director Matteo Garrone for their latest collection which is inspired by tarot cards.
The filmmakers behind recent hits like “Gomorrah” and “Pinocchio” create dream-like adventures where a young woman meets tarot characters like Justice, the Madman, and Death.
The creations on display mix femininity – a long lace dress with thick sleeves – with masculine, in the form of a reinvented Dior iconic “bar” suit.
“Tarot cards speak of a magical world,” said Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Italian haute couture designer at the fashion house. “Not to tell us the future, but to better understand the present and our personalities.”
“Garrone’s artisanal approach to filmmaking has poetic language, it’s very beautiful, which fits perfectly with my vision of haute couture,” he told AFP.
Meanwhile, Chanel made their online presentation on Wednesday with a short film and photographs by another cult favorite, Anton Corbijn, known for his biographical film Joy Division “Control” and many photographic portraits of rock icons.
“I knew we couldn’t have a big catwalk show, that we had to do something else. So I got the idea of a little procession going down the Grand Palais steps. Like family celebrations, weddings,” said Virginie Viard, Chanel’s creative director.
– ‘Creativity is protection’ –
Such positive energy is difficult to maintain as the pandemic continues, delaying the return of the glitz and glamor of live fashion events.
“There’s no point in denying that catwalk shows are a key element, not only for Dior, but for the whole world of fashion. Guests are part of the show,” said Chiuri.
She’s currently preparing a pret-a-porter collection for the next Fashion Week in March, even though she doesn’t know what’s coming.
“The beginning of the year was very difficult. There are ups and downs. It’s tiring to keep looking for strength to keep going. But creativity is a refuge in these difficult times, ”he said.
Tarot cards are a sanctuary for Christian Dior himself, who often turns to him as he builds his fairytale fashion house through the uncertain postwar years.
Chiuri’s latest design draws on the famous Visconti tarot of the 15th century, embellished with gold and enamel, rich in green and geometric colors – images that guide the contours of the wrapped dress and its color scheme that fades with time.
The new take on the bar jacket involves black velvet with a new construction of lateral folds, accessories with trousers and moccasins.
Chiuri is sticking to her well-known feminist aesthetic of flats – so rare in the haute couture world – while gold and silver gloved boots complete her long dress.
The Italian Renaissance style also emerged from the way materials were made.
One technique – known as “edible velvet” – involves removing the velvet lining to accentuate the golden lamé backdrop on a “thousand flowers” dress, or the hand-painted zodiac sign on another.
© 2021 AFP
to request modification Contact us at Here or [email protected]