The curtains fall on another Milan fashion week, or at least the screen darkens on this season’s all-digital affair, with designers looking forward to better times.
The autumn / winter 2021-2022 collection has hope when the Corona virus is stopped or at least controlled: when house clothes are shed and new clothes look bright, because when life returns to its normal likeness.
The sequins set the tone for an irresistible party atmosphere, by the standards set by Prada.
Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada used it for a shiny coat of large faux fur.
Elsewhere they are fuller, completely overlaid in straight cut coats, or on skirts, bags and shoes.
In Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli wears sequins on a leather-colored dress, or a shimmering floor-high robe.
They’re tucked into knitwear at Missoni or Brunello Cucinelli, while at Armani sequins storm a black tuxedo jacket, the effect is complemented by ruffles and gemstones.
After months of confinement indoors, familiar clothing is given out: dresses with thin straps of silk, lace or voile are on the catwalks of every mansion.
At Fendi, there is a liquid silk dress, extended to the neck with the incorporation of a long scarf.
New artistic director Kim Jones is also using silk for trousers and tops, as if the working girl has turned her silk pajamas into a chic urban outfit.
Valentino’s nets and straps reveal more than they hide, and MM6 Maison Margiela has a camisole with thin straps in the collection where everything is upside down, where underneath is on top.
The bomber jacket brings a GI Jane feel to the collection, although it looks more like Marilyn Monroe visiting the Marines than Demi Moore’s shaved head.
In Prada, the nylon jacket is too big and black. At Etro they have an ethnic feel, at Pucci they are branded, while at Max Mara they highlight the label’s founding date in 1951.
For the Alberta Ferretti, they are made of leather, while Dolce & Gabbana make it sexy with the addition of Madonna-style cones on the chest.
Black is used to claim a more formal wardrobe.
In Valentino, the colors are only dominated by flashes of white, gold and checks.
In Prada, contrast with the color elements on the arms, legs, neck or accessories.
Armani uses it for a similar effect, his collection is based on black with blue, green, and purple. The grand finale of black at Fendi presents a very sophisticated look.
Meanwhile, the contemporary Amazonian strong woman at Alberta Ferretti is wearing black overalls, a robe and black trousers.
Like the animal coming out of hibernation, the thick coat of Chewbacca Yeti or Star Wars returns, both real and fake.
For Prada, fur was synthetic and ubiquitous, used not only for coats and stoles but also for show decoration, covering walls and floors.
Fur specialist Fendi presents some grandiose looks, but with a new approach – reusing material from previous works.
Florentine house, Ferragamo, is lint-free, but features a knitwear with a dramatic fur-like fringe.
At Dolce & Gabbana, fur coats are multicolored, sometimes pink, golden or multicolored, and always large.
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