Who needs the Winter Olympics when you can watch Lindsey Vonn ski in a Thom Browne tuxedo and gold lame puffer dress? Ah-mazing.
Browne plays the alpine racing queen as her star in one of the season’s top fashion films, a 10-minute jewelry box from a black-and-white tale that conjures up the intimacy of Wes Anderson’s “Grand Budapest Hotel” and the sentimentality of Victor Fleming’s “Wizard of Oz”, but still pure Thom.
“When you do something that you want to be really special, you always have the dream of working with someone who is the best at what they do. It’s like LeBron, ”said Browne, referring to his collaboration on clothing with basketball legend LeBron James. “When you think of skiers, you think of Lindsey Vonn.”
The film highlighting the Olympics, who in 2010 became the first American woman to win a gold medal in downhill skiing following a Browne sports-themed spring outing, was shot at LA’s Memorial Sports Coliseum, which hosted the Olympics twice.
“It started when I was in LA in September, I thought the games in those two collections were the Summer and Winter Olympics, and [for winter] take the extreme sports video idea, which I love, everyone hopping out of the helicopter and skiing down those crazy slopes. Her dream is to have Lindsey Vonn jump out of the helicopter and ski in one of my tuxedos. And here it is! “
“I’m excited about this project bringing Thom and me together,” Vonn said by email. “She is conscientious in her work and couture skills and has produced campaign videos highlighting her creative mind and her message of hope and unity.”
Browne wrote and directed the story, which pays tribute to Dorothy’s dream country “there is no place like home”, with filmmaker Carissa Gallo. (“He understood my quirks and how I wanted to make things dazzlingly older than new and very realistic,” he said.) The shooting took place over three days at Solitude Mountain outside Park City, Utah. “We were all skiing … it was amazing to see a guy with a steady camera on the ski and seeing him ski in person,” said Browne of Vonn’s engraving technique. “It’s a lot of work but also a lot of fun. Spring movies are a great learning experience. This one feels on a different level. “
Combining tweed couture and mohair as well as technical ripstop fabrics, black tie formal wear and sportswear silhouettes, the men’s and women’s collections suit the film in the drama. It is also a master class in execution, offering a multi-layered window into classic sewing techniques such as corsets and folds.
The dress is a sculptural construction of half tuxedo, half corset, while the tailoring is highly detailed with patchwork and mountainous landscapes, or embroidered with snowflakes made of Mr. and Mrs. Thom and tiny trumpet beads like fresh dust. The intricate, irregular pleats of the black wool skirt draped in buttons from the white bodice echo the movements of the skier in powder. And a black mini dress, worn over a pleated trouser skirt, was beaded so dense that designers said it weighed almost 100 pounds.
But not all of them are heavy. The technical straps create a floating shape on the sleeves and collars of a white cotton tuxedo shirt, some with cool hand cuff details, and a t-shirt for one, can be separated from Browne’s total look and tucked into almost anyone’s wardrobe.
Speaking of commercial fronts, downy outerwear has been a huge category for Browne, since she became one of the first Moncler collaborators in 2016, and that sporty influence can be felt in the thick nylon layered skirt on the construction miracle corset dress, the knit fabric. , woven and nylon mixed, and formed by technical pull ropes; as well as on horizontally layered evening robes, tote bags, scarves and other ready-to-wear clothing.
Another tuxedo corset dress, complete with embroidered mittens on the jacket-like bodice, and super-sized white satin ribbon on the hips, also has a nylon puffer volume on the skirt.
“It is important to see beautiful clothes on the body, regardless of whether it is male or female,” said Browne about her appearance. “I like to show the togetherness between men and women, but this is the first time I didn’t think about men or women when I was designing, I really just made the part. It’s amazing when we live because this conversation happens. “
There are so many details to pore over, one hopes that this outfit could be seen in person at some point, because it’s not on the runway, perhaps as part of an exhibition in a shop or museum.
That’s the only caveat of digital formats, Browne admits. “I’m going back to live performances, but I also really like making films and the idea of doing a combination of the two. It’s a luxury to have time to edit a venue with a show, that’s 20 minutes and you better get it right. “
She’s so creative, it would be really interesting to see a full-length feature film from her someday. Moving on to Tom Ford, there is another Thom who is ready to take over Hollywood.
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