“I’m not an anarchist. I want to share my ideas with others, ” Alessandro Michele said on a video call from Rome on Monday afternoon (May 25). The previous weekend, in a painful locking diary, Michele had announced Gucci ‘A departure from the traditional performance cycle for a seasonless approach to collections. Feeling a post-pandemic taste for “the essential,” Gucci replaced the current structure of five separate women’s, men’s and cruise shows with only two annual presentations.
“I have designed the future for this company by also looking into the past. I am convinced that moving forward also means returning to the origins of this extraordinary industry, “said Michele, acknowledging that her new vision for industry had a lot in common with her old structure, before there were before and capsule collection performances. several times a year. “We will update it, but we have to return what we have had in the past, and maybe show you more inventive products. To do that we need more time. “
Gucci’s decision will no doubt have an impact on the fashion landscape outside its own brand boundaries. As an industry leader (with a global power base indicated by revenues approaching € 10 billion, or £ 9 billion), this step can be interpreted as a blueprint for other brands to follow. Since Covid-19 hit Europe and America in March – making voyages this summer, male and haute couture performances impossible – many fashion people have been eyeing opportunities to slow down and reform the endless cycle of industrial production.
“We are a big brand, so we have the responsibility to look after our industry. We need to give the time needed. “The things we make have longer lives than what we have given them in the past,” Michele said, motivated by a carved ceiling, which was assigned as the Renaissance office at Palazzo Alberini. “We all agree that autumn and spring are the most appropriate [time frames] to show our work, but I hope that other brands will follow us so we can have an open dialogue to set a new date. “
In expressing his desire to reorganize the existing fashion week schedule through industry efforts, Michele reported rumors that Gucci would leave fashion week altogether. While for the September fashion week, still on the air, he said Gucci did not rely on the presentation of the collection. “I don’t think we will meet face to face next time. We have long been turned off, so I don’t think we will have a regular calendar for September. I want to recover a new kind of time – real and practical – so we will choose another date.”
In recent weeks, a number of initiatives fronted by independent designers and the fashion council have proposed a new season structure. But, until now, brands owned by conglomerates such as Gucci, which are under Dry umbrella, and the council that controls the all-important Paris and Milan fashion week have remained largely silent. In April, Saint Laurent, also owned by Dry, stated his withdrawal from Paris Fashion Week which had not been confirmed in September, revealed that “the brand will lead its own rhythm” going forward.
But Gucci news, marks the most important step made in fashion as a result of coronavirus. Supported by Michele lockdown diary like a manifesto (worth reading), this is not just business but a philosophy for a new era of awareness in fashion. “I hope that the choices we make will respect the actual fashion and factory times, and the people who work there,” he said Monday. By reducing industrial output, Michele wants to increase the sustainability of the modes we buy.
“I don’t have enough room for myself here,” he smiled, pointing to his prince surroundings. “There are clothes everywhere. They deserve love and care, and if they stay in our care longer, it will be much better. “The seasonless structure fits Michele’s vision, which develops in no hurry in the highly established creative universe he once called the” Renaissance street style. ” : a candy shop with a variety of products that are provided in a stable flow that rarely looks as if there are certain parts that are owned by one collection or another.
In that case, although it does not always function as an ideal blueprint for brands that sell themselves to more radical changes toward every six months, the revolution without Michele’s season is perfect for Gucci. However, many are united in the belief, that post-pandemic fashion is about creating a more humane and reasonable way in the traditional seasonal fashion cycle. Asked how he would meet the income from five annual collections with just two, Michele smiled: “Since I started working for Gucci, I’ve always had this dialogue. I hope again surprised. “
To the 48-year-old designer, the current situation seems cathartic. He spent his life as an anonymous team designer until his 360 degree proposal for the new Gucci earned him a promotion in 2015 and turned life upside down. In five astronomically successful years at the helm, Michele has become a fashion superstar, business visionary, and retail wizard, with an endless schedule to match her increasing responsibilities. He made no secret of the pressure that came with such success.
In January, Gucci returned to a male-only event after a joint presentation season, effectively adding the event to Michele’s schedule. A month after that, he put on a show the meta women’s show which brought the backstage area to the runway as an illustration of the nonstop cycle mode he inhabited. “I ask myself, why do I repeat this ritual repeatedly? I’m tired after the fashion show. It’s really tiring, “he said at the time. “Being in the fashion world is like being an isolated nun. We travel the world, always saying, ‘One day we will give up and do something else’. But that day never came. Mode is very strong. “
Michele’s words perfectly grasped the ambivalent relationship of fashion with herself: the passionate and unrelenting wheel of passion and ambition of hamsters. With his new initiative – its practicality will be decided through an industrial dialogue – Gucci set out to humanize the wheel by stopping it and re-igniting it, with more sustainable fuel, at a speed that is not too fierce. “I have time I’ve never had before,” said Michele, dressed in a kaftan about the locking, sometimes fanning herself with a large black fan. Now, he teases, “I feel like a horse ready to start racing.”
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