SOAVE, Italy – Gucci and Saint Laurent are the two most famous luxury fashion houses that announce that they will leave the fashion calendar behind, with a rhythm four times a year, alternating fashionista cadres between global capitals where they press their shoulders – covering the runways for 15 minutes breathing heavily.
Coronavirus locking, which has touched luxury fashion houses in their bottom line, also provides a pause to rethink the pace of fashion, offering the possibility to return to periods of creativity and production that are less busy, more considered – and possibly consumption.
Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele envisions appointments twice a year – one in autumn and one in spring – to present collections together, away from the hip-up calendar that has required pre-season collections before the main women’s and men’s runway shows and collections one-time cruise, more and more in exotic locations.
“Two appointments a year are more than enough to give time to form creative thinking, and give more time to this system,” Michele said in a video conference this week, expanding the ideas he launched last weekend in a series of Instagram posts from his lock diary. alone.
Michele said she hoped that the new calendar and rhythm would be decided in the fashion system and in collaboration with other designers.
It has been clear over the past few years that the fashion world has suffered below its current pace: More luxury homes have combined male and female performances as clothing without gender and even without seasons become a global theme; it has never happened for big brands to spend the season or roam away from their fashion cities to expand their audience.
Saint Laurent has not articulated his intentions, but said in a statement last month that it would “take control” of the fashion schedule “aware of the current state and wave of radical change.”
Luxury fashion was one of the first industries that showed suffering from coronavirus, the first with the closure of China which closed boutiques and blocked travelers in January from the region responsible for a third of global luxury. And the pandemic appeared in Europe just as the Autumn-Winter 2020-2021 was taking place in Milan and then in Paris.
Describing how vulnerable the show system is to dealing with a rapidly spreading global virus, Giorgio Armani showed his collection in a closed theater on February 23 – just two days after Italy became the first Western country to have a coronavirus outbreak.
Armani also called for rethinking the big changes in luxury fashion for 45 years as supporters of Milan’s fashion.
In a letter to Women’s Wear Daily last month, Armani said she felt “immoral” for luxury fashion to adopt fast fashion steps – the drive to give more in the pursuit of profit “but forget that luxury takes time, to achieve and to be valued.” That includes a step towards a look-now, buy-now capsule collection by several brands, which is in direct contradiction to his idea of ”eternal elegance”.
“It doesn’t make sense if one of my jackets or suits stays in the store for three weeks before they become obsolete, replaced by new items that are not too different,” Armani said.
Armani, who opened his Milan boutiques last week when the Italian economy slowly reopened, said he would keep summer collections in stores until September – contrary to the recent practice of placing linen dresses in stores in the season cold and alpaca coats in the summer.
Copyright 2020 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed without permission.
to request modification Contact us at Here or [email protected]