Imagine this! Archive of Jason Lloyd Evans’ fashion show
The British photographer shares his favorite backstage images, from the Prada runway show, Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga and others
British photographer and Wallpaper contributor * Jason Lloyd Evans has been taking behind-the-scenes behind-the-scenes shots of the most creative, luxurious and pushing brand runway shows since the early 2000s. During today’s difficult time, he investigated his enormous photographic archive, which included cities, creative directors, and aesthetic changes, and highlighted his favorite backstage images from brands including Balenciaga, Dior, Louis Vuitton and Prada. Here we reveal these sublime photos, which will allow you to enjoy a little fashion escape.
Miu Miu S / S 2004
‘This picture marks a very different time, when backstage is a less structured environment. This represents an unattended moment and a different perspective from today ‘. – JLE
Christian Dior Haute Couture A / W 2004
‘Because the backstage area is very small, there is no Look First Look option’ to take pictures that are ready to use. Some of us were outside and realized that the models had to go outside and walk effectively along the catwalk that was not seen by the guests to get backstage ‘marching’. I got the first one Sunday Times style close the show by stopping two models for only five seconds. ‘- JLE
Chlo S / S 2005
‘There are many great models at this time, always with fresh energy, like Daria Werbowy and Gemma Ward. At this time, Chloé was led by Phoebe Philo, before she joined Celine. ’- JLE
Yves Saint Laurent S / S 2006
‘This image reminds me of how fashion continues to develop. Stefano Pilati was at the helm of the creative house at the time, and I was happy to photograph Pilati’s new label, Random Identities at Pitti Uomo in January. It was a hot morning on the day of the show at Paris Fashion Week. This first backstage shot has always been one of my favorites. ’- JLE
Balenciaga S / S 2007
Performances ‘Nicolas Ghesquière is always good for filming. At this time, the Vuitton venues were always very small and the backstage area was small so we never knew what we would take to shoot. It was a time when things were much freer and less controlled. ‘- JLE
Marc Jacobs S / S 2008
‘Marc Jacobs really ruled NYFW all this time. The shows are always the most interesting. This might be what started two hours late! ’- JLE
Alexander McQueen S / S 2009
‘Everyone knows about intensity and energy Alexander McQueen and there is always a buzz in the fashion show environment. Extraordinary stories, total theatrics, and the commitment of everyone involved in this process are very moving. Everyone tried hard to create McQueen’s vision and the intensity at the events was unmatched. ’- JLE
Louis Vuitton A / W 2009
‘Vuitton is a very difficult show to get into backstage imaging, and at that time and I never knew whether I would get access or not. Here, flash is not permitted but the light is perfect without. ’- JLE
Prada A / W 2010
‘Every Prada show is special for filming. This shot finally became a cover Harper Bazaar Australian Special Clothing. It was very well received and the magazine continued to do the same supplement for several years. They produced a post-season magazine full of backstage and beauty photos and were a great record of the month of my performance. ’- JLE
Jil Sander S / S 2011
‘Work for Jil Sander at this time was amazing. The creative director at the time, Raf Simons, was truly seen as number one and the brand performance was always so special. This showroom is very small and I am the only person allowed backstage. Very special to catch this collection. ’- JLE §
Stay tuned for the next installment, covering 2012 – 2020
HIall the things we will miss Bernie SandersNow that he has quit the Democratic race, his style must be the least. Not only because the politics are so right – these are people who believe in free education and Medicare for all and who already have many Americans, who until now feel deprived of their rights by mainstream politics, feel activated by it. But also because the clothes looked ordinary.
He wears a tangled suit that looks borrowed from a slightly bigger man and a wrinkled shirt with a straight striped tie. The ignorance of his geography teacher’s shoes only matched his navy round neck jumpers who were not offensive.
But this is also a man who in 2017 received a fashion equivalent to a knight when his logo was raised by one of the biggest names in fashion, Balenciaga designer Demna Gvasalia, for her fall / winter men’s clothing collection.
He has been the subject of a high-mode meme treatment thanks to Siduations, an Instagram account that first rolled out the industry in 2017, and its merch, with its name and similarity, has been regularly seen on influencers with Instagram accounts that have more than 20 million followers.
Sanders accidentally becomes a hero gorpcore – the trend for all things Mountain Warehouse. Originally from Vermont, it is perhaps not surprising that he has something for the type of big coat that fashion favors, ideal for strolling between Norwegian flowers and the red maples of his home state.
In the world of style, which prosecutes people who are carefree, his haphazard nature has an undeniable appeal. “Bernie always, always appears in disheveled clothing,” said Lauren Gambino, US Guardian political correspondent. “His jacket never fits, he is always dandruff.” As one of the Minneapolis-Saint Paul stylists who works with Sanders for photo shoots said about the style without the fuss Sanders: “I’ve rolled and I’m out.”
Even the mechanics of his clothes have won him support. In a political landscape where many politicians fail the “how much is a liter of milk” test, Sanders marked himself with his comfortable armchair. You know, piled high with used clothes that you haven’t changed.
He wears a suit from Kohl, equivalent to the US for Debenhams, is in sharp contrast to Brioni or Armani clothes hanging in Trump’s wardrobe. And he had been wearing a tangled style since before Boris Johnson ran out of diapers. Odes have been written for it where he – “messy bum” – was held in stark contrast to ordinary political peacocks. His shirt is no stranger to irons and his hair has a windy quality: breathe fresh air in the corridors of the Capitol building.
But Sanders didn’t set his sights on cruelty, that’s what he was. And that is the bona fide nature of his disheveled appearance that matches what Guardian columnist Jonathan Freedland said is one of the most important qualities for politicians, especially in recent years: “Authenticity: the feeling that you see the real person, more precisely than manufactured or polished products. “
In that context, Freedland said, “a politician who does not seem to be organized by advisers … immediately conveyed through their clothing that they were different – that they were their own people, that they listened to their conscience rather than turning doctors and handlers, that they are principled and believing people and that, maybe, they care too much about serious problems to be bothered with trivial matters such as their personal appearance. “
Gambino agreed, linking his disheveled personal style to his personality: “He is so focused on his message that he doesn’t care about anything else.” The lines of the suit are as strong as the policies and the sharp message. But he showed a double gender standard – imagine if one of Hillary Clinton’s suits had not just been released.
Merch is a big part of all politicians’ campaigns in the US – Hillary has her tote bag, Trump has her Maga hat, Obama has Shepard Fairey’s “Hope” T-shirt – but Sanders in particular, according to Gambino, relies on his merchandise. for the kind of small dollar fundraiser that spins its campaign wheels. “He really knows how to use these people who might not make a lot of money but still want to contribute to the campaign.”
“This is in line with all kinds of punk and hardcore ideologies and subcultures,” said Sonya Sombreuil, the artist behind the last tee, sales that generated more than $ 80,000 for the Sanders campaign. There is something fitting about it given its last decades against establishment.
Perhaps partly because the constant “it’s not about me” message, Sanders has inspired loyal followers. “He really has no pride,” said Sombreuil, “and in that way allows all these different groups to interpret it and see their own vision in him.”
“I’m not someone who has ever used political goods,” said New York-based artist Nicole Ginelli, who “Bernie Barbie” raised funds for Sanders in 2016 and 2020. “I think many people who bought Bernie shirts too. They are not political nerds, they have been suspended by the political system here. “Wearing a Ramones T-shirt is one thing when you may or may not listen to it Bonzo Go to Bitburg once, wearing politicians on your chest talks about aligned values more directly.
After reading the fair share of Slavoj Žižek, Sanders supporters may also have a natural tendency towards DIY merch. “People don’t need to want to get their merchandise from major retailers,” said Ginelli, whose shirt is made locally: “it’s not in line with Bernie’s values and respecting workers in the supply chain.”
The DIY aesthetics and the proliferation of the Bernie merch also came to the centrality of the youth election. “He won the millennium,” Gambino said. “They are more creative and understand the internet so they can make merchandise.” Ginelli’s design, rightly, began as a gif on Tumblr.
Twin Peaks – the series that brought us delicious coffee, Woman Log and, for some, sudden mistrust of owls – celebrated its 30th birthday this week. Along with the gripping plot centered on the schoolgirl Laura Palmer killed and Lynchian oddities such as the red room, this series will always be remembered for her style. Catherine Spooner, professor of literature and culture at Lancaster University, and co-editor of Twin Peaks: A New Approach to Materiality, Theory and Genre on Television, said: “Almost every character wears a kind of uniform that conveys their role in society.” Here are six characters who use the mode for very impressive effects. With Kyle MacLachlan, aka Agent Cooper, hosting a virtual watch party, here’s some inspiration if you want to celebrate your anniversary in style. Contains spoilers …
18-year-old businessman’s daughter, Benjamin Horne, Audrey (Sherilyn Fenn) dressed to please herself. First seen in a soft sweater and pleated skirt, he changes from brogues to red stilettos when he leaves his father’s car and arrives at school, a scene Spooner described it as “A very personal moment of autoeroticism”. This exploration continues, translated by clothing, as he and Agent Cooper draw near. We see Audrey in more sweaters, more kilts, in lingerie and – in the famous cherry stalk scene – in the Little Black Dress over the shoulder. Her tantalizing dance in the kilt at the Double R restaurant, which contrasts with Audrey with ordinary feathered Donna, is now a reference to worship. It was reprized, with Fenn in black lace, for Twin Peaks: The Return in 2017. Thirty years later, Audrey Horne still felt herself.
Spooner described Nadine as an example of how this show glorifies our idea of uniforms as something that “should entertain us by showing everyone in the right place”. In Twin Peaks “They tend to confuse us because there is something ‘strange’ about them.” Indeed, a 35-year-old woman who combines cheerleading clothes with blindfold and wild hair is the iconic glass idea of Americana, which symbolizes Nadine’s decline into her teenage years after a suicide attempt. If Nadine has given birth to many Halloween costumes, her distinctive appearance has also become relevant recently thanks to Cheer, Netflix’s documentary about Navarro College’s cheerleading squad. It is safe to say that when it comes to style, Nadine has made a mat.
If Lynch doesn’t make a Log Lady, she might appear on Alessandro MicheleAfter all, the Gucci catwalk. Played by a friend of the director, Catherine Coulson70s style cardigan clothing, shirts, polonecks and large sunglasses have a retro chic geek feel that is now a familiar aesthetic. It was also the musical atmosphere around the statement log, reportedly worth $ 275,000. Coulson’s character has since been celebrated as a patron saint of outsiders who are willing to live – and dress – as they please. The actor once described his character as “the most normal person on the show” and when Bravo showed a repetition of Twin Peaks in 1993, Log Lady introduced each episode. Lynch described it as “hostess with the mostess [sic]”The legendary status of the Log Lady was sealed with The Return in 2017. While Coulson died in 2015, she starred in a posthumous performance of moving, wearing glasses with breathing aids needed to treat her cancer.
In 2017, Deputy called for James Hurley both “the worst thing about Twin Peaks“And” the original sad young man. “Hurley was clearly meant to be a walking cliche, a cypher of the American masculine teen rebellion: You can tell because he wears a motorcycle jacket and feel, and rides a motorcycle. Spooner points to Hurley’s biker jacket as an item that operates symbolically As the name suggests, and his singing about fellow teenagers, it is an item that puts him in the same bloodline as James Dean and Chris Isaak, while gently pointing out that he is not really worthy of all women – Laura Palmer, Donna, Maddy – Falling for him.Repeating the guitar playing that was heavily controlled for the new series, the jacket was clearly not there – maybe because a middle-aged man wearing one might spell something different, namely midlife crisis.
Like Don Draper at Mad Men, Agent Dale Cooper is everything for Twin Peaks: heroes, symbols, plot sets, fashion references. That’s the sound we first heard in this series, followed by the shot hung upside down on a tartan boxer and a pure white vest. Everything about Agent Cooper’s appearance, as with Draper, is clean, neat, neat and uniform: short backs and sides; fresh suit, fresh, trenchcoat. In the post-normcore world, this has been celebrated by fashion. Kyle MachLachlan, who plays Cooper, attended the Balenciaga fashion show in 2018 with a hyped label designer For Gvasalia commenting that he is “always on my mood board“After The Return, where MacLachlan plays five separate Coopers, Gvasalia’s moodboard will be full. “His performance was extraordinary, but obviously it was helped by his costume,” Spooner said. “‘ Bad Cooper ’is a certain genius trick – MacLachlan’s strangely neat ponytails and mod-inspired leather jacket are somehow exactly what you expect Cooper to have by Bob’s demons to wear.”
Everyone is a little in love with Laura Dern now. David Lynch is far ahead Renata Klein fan. The main role of the first actor is in the film Blue velvet in 1986. Although he did not appear in two original series, he played Diane in The Return. Yes, that Diane, the secretary who sent Agent Cooper a recording throughout the series, was a woman he described as “an interesting cross between a saint and a cabaret singer”. When we finally saw Dern’s Diane – and, indeed, the doppelganger – they did not disappoint. We see a razor-sharp bob, sometimes platinum, sometimes red fire; colorful nails and clothes including leopard jackets and emerald green pajamas. “If the first two series are full of moments where the costume draws attention to itself, the Diane costume always draw attention to himself, “said Spooner. “It also brings home how rarely you see a middle-aged woman on a screen dressed in a unique and interesting and unusual way, but positioned as stylish and cool, rather than ‘eccentric’ or ‘fashionista’.”