Tag Archives: circular economy

Can end-to-end sustainability standards change the fashion? | Instant News

Leaving subjectivity in what is considered sustainable, however, raises questions across the board about standards. There is tension about how and where synthetic fibers fit into sustainable industries, if they do, for example. The Cradle to Cradle certification encourages, to varying degrees depending on the level of certification, a much greater use of recycled fiber, and new releases also strengthen the criteria for dealing microfiber pollution. “Product manufacturer [at high risk for microfibre and microplastic pollution] must commit to developing policies on the problem, developing strategies to address it, and reporting on progress made, “said Raab.

For supporters who focus on the natural environment, even that is too low a limit. “In my view, we need a more explicit plan to get all non-biodegradable plastics out of circulation on a relatively short time scale, such as maybe 10-15 years,” said Timo Rissanen, professor of fashion design at the University of Technology Sydney and a member of the organization. founder of the Union of Concerned Researchers in Fashion.

However, perhaps the biggest question arises from the broader role of certification. Affordability is a frequent issue, as schemes reward those who are able to apply for certification, said Rissanen, while other detractors say certification focuses on the wrong aspects of sustainability.

“Measuring supply chain improvement makes us do the wrong thing,” said Grose. “I think the main question is, does product certification move the needle towards reducing global impacts and achieving true ecological benefits? And I think we can say for sure now that the answer is no. “

Raab admits that it is a problem – and is something they are trying to evaluate while working to improve where they can.

“We want to ensure that what is put forward is ready for a circular economy. I think that’s our biggest contribution, “he said. “Frankly, it’s something we also ask ourselves and the role we can play there.”

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Used clothing: Luxury label ‘future is in buyers’ wardrobe | Business | Economic and financial news from a German perspective | DW | Instant News

“There’s always the sensation of finding something really cool, something you’ve always wanted but never been able to afford. Suddenly, it pops up on your screen,” Antonia Barthel told DW. A 27-year-old from Munich perusing high-end resale platforms every week, hunting for second-hand luxury clothing.

It was customers like him that caused fashion labels to reconsider their stance on the resale sector. Earlier this month, Kering, the luxury giant that owns brands such as Gucci, Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga, acquired a 5% stake in France’s high-end resale platform, Vestiaire Collective. Resale market previously shunned by luxury fashion houses, which were careful to give up control over the distribution, prices, and perception of their goods. Dry Investment could signify a wider pivot towards resale in the industry.

Francois-Henri Pinault, chairman and CEO of Kering, said in a statement: “The former luxury is now a real and deeply entrenched trend.”

Preloved: Image transformation

The image of shabby, used clothes gradually faded. Preloved is the new motto of many young fashionistas.

“I never cared if it had been worn before. It felt new to me,” said Barthel.

The fact that glossy no longer has to mean new is “just a contemporary approach for fashion designers,” Max Schönemann, CEO of German luxury fashion resale platform Rebelle, told DW.

Resale is on the rise

While the fashion industry is projected to suffer the biggest financial hit in decades during the pandemic, the resale industry is booming. Through resale platforms such as Vestiaire Collective and Rebelle, consumers are selling unwanted clothing directly to other consumers online. Vestiaire Collective grew by more than 100% in the last year. 140,000 new items are now uploaded to the platform every day.

“The last few months have been the best in the history of our business,” Rebelle’s Schönemann told DW.

Resale platforms are hugely popular with millennials and Gen Z., which are more economical and focus more on sustainability than the legacy consumer segment. By ignoring the used goods industry, luxury fashion brands have missed the opportunity to attract a large market.

The current investment in Kering is aimed at “recruiting future customers,” Citigroup’s Thomas Chauvet told DW.

Chauvet points out that collaborating with resale sites is also a way to collect data on consumer shopping behavior and brand desires.

GenZ is adopting secondhand fashion more quickly than any other age group

Affordable Luxury

Affordability is a key driver of sales of used luxury goods.

“I wouldn’t buy a Chloé handbag in a store, but I recently bought a used handbag online,” says Barthel.

This 27 year old man prides himself on having a high quality bag that has become a staple in his wardrobe. The exorbitant price tag means buying a luxury handbag is a distant dream for most consumers. The resale sector has brought it within reach.

The pandemic has accelerated the trend towards affordable designer fashions: About half of millennial and Gen Z adults have seen income decline since the onset of the coronavirus crisis.

By partnering with resale players, luxury brands such as Alexander Mcqueen, Gucci and Burberry are slowly trying to build loyalty with younger customers amid the pandemic’s slump. This collaboration hints at a growing attitude in the luxury sector, which welcomes frugal consumers.

“Luxury brands want to maintain a constant dialogue with clients, both through direct channels and on alternative platforms,” ​​said Chauvet.

In an effort to reach out to resell consumers and prevent counterfeiting, Alexander McQueen is partnering with Vestiaire Collective’s new “Brand Approved” service. In a first of its kind collaboration, McQueen collects second-hand goods from in-store customers in exchange for store credits. The items are then authenticated by the fashion house, sent to the Vestiaire Collective and sold online with a special approval note.

Antonia Barthel wearing Chloe's handbag

Antonia Barthel from Munich was able to buy a high-end brand thanks to the resale platform

Sustainability is in vogue

While Antonia Barthel loves used goods, frugality is not her initial motivation to shop for used clothes. “Sustainability plays an important role for me. I usually don’t really care about brands,” he said.

The number of Millennials and Gen Z supporting sustainable products more than doubled between 2019 and 2020, according to Pricewaterhouse Cooper (PwC).

“The trend for sustainability has grown more rapidly during the pandemic,” PwC’s Erika Andreetta told DW.

Circular fashion model, which keeps products and materials used for as long as possible through reuse and recycling, is no longer just a keyword. As luxury players seek to increase their sustainability credentials, participating in the luxury resale sector will be essential.

“Luxury brands basically have no choice. They understand that sustainability will be the key for them moving forward. Resale is an important part of sustainability,” Clara Chappaz, head of business for Vestiaire Collective, told DW.

The infographic shows the growing share of the used goods market

Used goods are expected to claim the second largest market share after off-prices, while department stores are expected to lose market share

Chanel and Hermès charted another route

Despite the promises held by the resale sector, Dry’s pivot towards resale remains far from universal. Fashion houses like Hermès and Chanel are still against selling even their most iconic leather goods online, let alone partnering up with resale parties.

For these more traditional-minded homes, the resale revival continues to feel like losing control of things. Chanel is currently engaged in a lengthy court battle with resale platform The RealReal, accusing fake advertising and selling fake bags. The iconic fashion house claims that its shop is the only place eligible to sell genuine Chanel.

“The brands that may be more reluctant to accept the resale market are those that are positioned very exclusively and exercise tight control over distribution and pricing,” Chauvet said.

However, Chauvet hopes the brand won’t be able to stay in the resale sector for much longer. “I think the trend will be strong enough for everyone to embrace it and work together,” he said. Dry Investments will likely be the first of many luxury fashion races into the resale sector.


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Italy and UNIDO remain committed to working together to accelerate progress towards the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development | Instant News


Last week, the Italian Ambassador, Alessandro Cortese, and the Director General of the United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO), LI Yong, signed funding arrangements for three projects financed by the Italian Government.

At the signing, Ambassador Cortese, Italy’s Permanent Representative to International Organizations in Vienna, said, “The unprecedented crisis caused by the COVID-19 pandemic has pushed the world off course planned by the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development. . Italy remains committed to working with UNIDO with the aim of rebuilding and ensuring a more just, inclusive, sustainable, resilient and greener future, including through the G20 Presidency and the co-Presidency COP26. “

UNIDO’s Li noted that the three projects are proof that international cooperation is essential to overcome the global crisis and to accelerate progress towards achieving the 2030 Agenda, adding, “With the continued assistance of the Government of Italy, one of UNIDO’s main donors, UNIDO has been able to fulfill its mandate and encourage inclusive and sustainable industrial development, especially at this time with development progress hampered by the COVID-19 pandemic. “

The project, “Operationalization and sustainability of integrated agro-industrial parks (IAIPs) in Ethiopia”, will contribute to the development of the country’s agro-industrial sector and to the creation of decent jobs and economic opportunities in rural areas. The development of four IAIPs is the main objective UNIDO Program for Country Partnerships for Ethiopia.

The continent-wide program, “Opportunities for Employment for Youth in Africa” ​​was jointly developed by United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) and UNIDO, will accelerate efforts in the field of job creation for African youth, particularly through the development of agribusiness and entrepreneurship.

The third project, “Industrial policies for a circular economy”, will provide specific training programs for policymakers from Lebanon, Morocco and Tunisia to promote circular economy practices. This will be carried out in collaboration with the University of Ferrara and the University of Roma Tre.

/ UNIDO Public Release. This material comes from the original organization and may be point-in-time, edited for clarity, style and length. view more here.


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How COVID-19 Is Pushing The Fashion Industry To Circle | Instant News

That what list needs to be scaled up in the $ 1.5 trillion long fashion industry. Years of producing cheap clothing with cheap labor have created an unsustainable scenario. The linear take-waste approach that is the backbone of the industry has had astonishing consequences.

The synthetic fibers used in 72 percent of our clothing take 200 years to break down. The apparel industry accounts for 10 percent of global greenhouse gases while producing and transporting millions of clothes each year. Garment workers working hard 16 hours per day earn one-fifth of the minimum wage needed to live in dignity.

But it may have a silver lining. Thanks to COVID-19, the entire industry has been disrupted: retailers are closing their shops and the increase in online shopping has increased the need to digitize. Meanwhile, people working at home, a lack of social life, and economic uncertainty have made clothing sales plummet. Production stopped; the supply chain has closed. At the same time, more and more consumers are voicing their concerns about the impact the industry has on the planet.

The disruptions in 2020 have forced fashion retailers into a new era of accounting. While the top and bottom lines have been key markers over the years, businesses are starting to realize that doing good and doing good can add to do better.

So yes, there is still hope on the horizon. Fashion retailers are now starting to focus on a new “green line” in accounting that can only be achieved by embracing the concept of “circularity” – ensuring resources and products stay used for as long as possible before being remade into new products.

Go around and around

What is the world of circular fashion like? Imagine walking into your local retail space with a shopping bag full of shoes and old clothes to tuck into the recycle bin provided by the retailer. Next, you might stand for a moment beside a glass partition to watch the recycling machine as it disassembles, cleans, and shreds old clothes into fibers, spins them into yarn, and knits completely new tops that are taken away in the hangar. to be displayed in the boutique.

Then, you’ll take a walk to the digital wardrobe center to see what’s new in the stock market and resale. You’ll be choosing dresses and jackets for the weekend, which you will swap out the following month. And before leaving the store, you’ll stop at the click and collect center, where you can try on new underwear you ordered online to make sure it fits snugly before you take it home.

Most importantly, you will feel good about yourself because you are one of the more than 60 percent consumer back in 2020 who said environmental impact was an important factor in purchasing decisions. You will experience changes driven by the power of your choice: now your favorite brand is the one that ensures that resources and products stay in use for as long as possible before they are recycled or remade into new products.

Front runner

The scenario described above is not far-fetched. Companies are already adopting innovative ways to engage customers on their journey to circularity.

Nike has introduced the “Reuse-A-Shoe” collection point at a particular Nike store, separating and converting rubber, foam, leather and textile components into granules used to make new footwear.

If your old Apple device is serviceable and renewable, you can receive an Apple Store gift card to use on the newer model. If not, Apple will recycle it.

Hunkemöller, Europe’s number one underwear retailer, encourages customers to bring back used textiles for recycling.

And global clothing retailer H & M’s Toilet machine is an existing container-sized recycling system where customers can watch old textiles live a new life.

Sustainability dividend

While H&M may still be associated with fast fashion – rather than sustainable -, companies now see the responsibility and opportunity to make circular fashion more attractive and desirable. The Looop system is a part of The bigger H&M plan be full circle and climate positive.

The fashion industry is aware of the fact that reducing its environmental impact will pay big dividends for both constituent companies and the wider community. In fact, the authors McKinsey’s 2021 State of Fashion report expect circularity to be the next big disruptor.

As highlighted in the report, the way values ​​are created in a circular system is very different from the way values ​​are created in a linear system. In a circular fashion retail model, a garment creates value over and over again – by being sold, returned, repaired, resold, leased, or ultimately recycled in one continuous loop to achieve maximum use. This in turn creates entirely new experiences.

Three steps for the circular retail model

While there is no standard solution, there are three steps recommended by McKinsey’s fashion industry experts: embrace circular design, ramp-up reverse logistics, and support customer adoption.

Step 1: Design without waste

Waste and pollution are the result of flaws in the design. Ninety percent of the environmental impact occurs at the design stage of a product, which is why three principles of circularity is the key to a more sustainable future. This requires product and material innovation along with a shift in mindset.

One example in this area is Subaru Indiana, the first US auto manufacturer achieve zero-landfill status. Starting May 2002, the company decided not to send anything to landfills, believing that putting anything into the ground, air, or water presented a risk. By being a good environmental steward, the company saves between $ 1–2 million a year.

To be circular, companies can start by retraining designers and stimulating circular design innovation. They must train their own people and their suppliers to reduce waste in production and supply chains, and reuse fiber, chemicals and other resources to the fullest extent possible.

Step 2: Manage waste with reverse logistics

While will become more circular already exist in many companies and organizations, making it happen can be difficult. Many places do not have proper waste management and recycling infrastructure, and recycling technology is still not good enough. According to 2020 The SAP and Qualtrics survey is published by the World Economic Forum at Davos, 61% of people worldwide do not have access – or knowledge – to use the recycling infrastructure.

Reverse logistics is about reselling or recovering goods from disposal to continue to get value from them. One example in this area is The Body Shop, A Company B Corp. committed to using plant-based or recycled plastic packaging. In 2019, they introduced a pioneering refill scheme and recycling program that removed a total of 21 tonnes of plastic from their holiday gift packaging. Their Return.Recycle.Repeat scheme encourages customers to return empty product containers to the store for refilling or reuse.

Retailers can help improve the waste situation by implementing in-store circularity hubs or creating non-store collection points. Most importantly, retailers can eliminate single-use packaging and work with partners to optimize sorting facilities and recycling technology.

Step 3: Create a customer experience

Retailers can take big steps towards circularity by educating and encouraging consumers to translate their sustainable values ​​into concrete action. Involving consumers in the entire process helps create a type of experience that goes beyond just buying a product. By bringing back bottles for refilling, for example, consumers are comfortable with reducing environmental impact, retailers are showing social responsibility, and both parties benefit from reduced waste and packaging costs.

A prime example of offering an out-of-product retail experience is Patagonia, an outdoor clothing retailer. The company owns online platform to repair, trade, and resell used Patagonian clothing, and not only to educate consumers about the sustainability of its products, but connect individuals who are committed to organizations working on environmental issues in their own communities.

Value to be appreciated

While the idea of ​​circularity is far from being a widespread reality, perhaps the most important thing for a fashion retailer looking to succeed in 2021 is that doing good can definitely have an impact on the top. and the bottom line. Any effort to be more sustainable and reduce waste will result in a better company. But to generate value – companies need to find the right balance between people, planet and profit.

Want to know about converting your company’s values ​​into business values? Check out the interactive Values ​​to Value business simulator and see how well you can lead your company through the business challenges that can lead to a world of new possibilities.

Click here to get started Value for Value .

Follow me on twitter @bayu_joo


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Fashion looks for meaning | Instant News

As 2020 turns to nightwear, deconstructing a pale fashion look only through the pandemic will offer the wrong story. Global lockdowns, store closings, the human cost of stalled production, the grim reminder that fashion is a discretionary purchase, is causing tremendous upheaval. But the metamorphic relationship between equality and exclusivity has finally picked one side. It changes fashion, as we know it, to fashion.

Shoes, clothes, bags, trends, celebrities, OTT series, glamor-spiked (virtual) events – nothing resonates unless marked with something meaningful. The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) starts a fund for craftsmen, celebrities talk about recyclable fashion, Meghan Markle hands over her royal tiara for free California skies and cropped pants, fashion magazines put doctors on the cover to convey courage, Gita Gopinath, the Chief The International Monetary Fund economist, was the cover girl for Vogue India in November. Not only that. Actor-singer Zendaya won the fashion visionary award at the Green Carpet Fashion Awards in Italy, for being “a pioneer in diversity, equity and sustainability”. Designers Mia Morikawa and Shani Himanshu of the Indian brand 11.11 / eleven eleven showed a film at the season liquid edition of Lakmé Fashion Week in October without a single fashion model. Instead, they show artisanal hands at work, from spinning hands to dyeing threads, showing off the journey of “seed to sewing” clothes. The NFC (close-up communication) button means transparency, helping to find the precise aim of spinners, dyes, weavers and craftsmen who make clothes.

What matters is the spirit of our time. Dignity and equality for those who are slaves in fashion production. Circularity is not a more-is-joy doctrine. Race and diversity-sensitive leadership and storytelling. A design that not only prioritizes natural beauty, height or good health. Clothing is made without toxic dyes and polluting materials, the manufacturing process is redesigned in a way that is socially just and environmentally safe.

The rise of dark stories

The pandemic has accelerated such a transition. But so is the Black Lives Matter movement in the West and the wise lessons of the exodus of migrants from Indian cities. Among the stark questions that producers and designers must answer are about the plight of migrants, some of whom are allied workers in the fashion industry. What is the true price of beautiful clothes when those who work the bottom rung find themselves unrecognized and homeless in an unprecedented crisis like this? An October report, entitled The State Of Circular Innovation In The Indian Fashion And Textile Industries, by Fashion for Good, a platform for innovation, collaboration and community, reported that the Indian fashion industry employs approximately 300 million people across the supply chain, 80% of them women. “As a center of production and a labor-intensive geography, worker empowerment is an important area of ​​innovation in India,” he said.

There is a wave of dark stories. Just last week, a report by the Washington-based Center for Global Policy found that more than 570,000 people from China’s minority groups were forced to work on cotton farms in the Xinjiang region, which supplies one-fifth of the world’s cotton. It said some of the most famous fast-fashion, sportswear and luxury brands took their cotton and products from China. In India, some skilled and unskilled workers (including minors) are part of an invisible supply chain for Western companies, where orders are sourced from vendors who outsource them to unverified intermediaries who “get the job done”. Fashion brands barely know the hands behind their bags, so let’s say, let alone track well-being, wages and working conditions.

However, not all of them can be put at the door of ignorance. Recently, The New York Times reported on the bankruptcy of India’s top designer Manish Arora, accusing his company of not completing partial employee dues, many of whom continue to work even as the business spirals out of control. Salary delays started in 2017 and some are still waiting to be paid.

Migrant life is a problem, women’s life is a problem, Dalits are a matter of life, farmers’ rights are a problem. And it all has to do with the materials, manufacture and supply of what eventually becomes fashion.

If you look at 2020 fashion through this prism, it’s a terrifying year.

Drumroll diversity

Ritu Kumar's campaign, 'Sama Cantik', represents four religions.

Ritu Kumar’s campaign, ‘Sama Cantik’, represents four religions.
(Ritu Kumar)

Over the past few years, after a number of top luxury and fast fashion brands – Dolce & Gabbana, Burberry, Gucci, H&M – were called in for producing culturally inappropriate clothing, corrective action saw more brands realizing there was a feeling of “awakening. in 2018, H&M announced its first diversity leader. In 2019, the Italian luxury brand Prada founded the Prada Diversity and Inclusion Advisory Council. Gucci also hired a new head of diversity, equality and inclusion.

But this year’s protests following George Floyd’s death at the hands of a police officer in the US, which added fuel to the Black Lives Matter movement, show a disconnect between claim and reality, in the fashion media as well. In June, Anna Wintour, global content head and artistic director of Condé Nast, the world’s most influential fashion editor, was called upon to “put women of color aside for years”. Wintour apologized for “publishing stories and images that were hurtful or intolerant”. Christene Barberich, editor-in-chief of fashion media site Refinery29, resigned after allegations of discrimination from employees. In August, black employees at Nike urged the brand to confront organizational equality issues before releasing the You Can’t Stop Us campaign, which featured top black athletes, including tennis star Serena Williams.

The results are just as important. Diversity concerns ushered in an unseen group of models on the catwalk and hitherto neglected professionals into the workplace, opening up new opportunities. Minor changes, but they are starting to downplay what was once the front runner in the game of fashion: elitism, exclusivity and privilege. According to the Diversity Report on the digital platform fashionspot.com, spring 2020 is historic due to the diversity of fashion weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris. Of the 7,390 castings models in 215 main shows, 41.5% were color models.

Gaurav Gupta’s Indian fashion show, Name Is Love show, which opens FDCI’s India Couture Week in September, lined up on the catwalk – including size, gender, sexuality and age. Travel and lifestyle brand Nicobar chose an elegant gray-haired doctor, Gita Prakash, as the protagonist of Diwali’s fashion edit. Raw Mango Festive 2020 film and fashion campaign Moomal, shot in the hometown of founder-designer Sanjay Garg in Rajasthan, features 53-year-old actor Mita Vashisht. Kochi-based designer Sreejith Jeevan, founder of the ROUKA label, featured his mother Sailaja Jeevan in a sari campaign. Just last week, the fashion leader, Ritu Kumar, released Equally Beautiful, a campaign by photographer Bikramjit Bose, with actor Zoya Hussein representing the four religions.

Table for two

A muslin piece from Injiri by Chinar Farooqui, who didn't participate in the fashion week due to industry 'pressure'.

A muslin piece from Injiri by Chinar Farooqui, who didn’t participate in the fashion week due to industry ‘pressure’.

It is clear that consumers have become aware of the plight of garment workers, child laborers and other vulnerable groups in the fashion supply chain. Campaigns to end unethical practices and advocating a circular, recyclable, reusable and non-polluting fashion are creating the biggest change. They are making headlines in the fashion media now. The McKinsey State Of Fashion 2020 study, with the online publication The Business of Fashion, found that 55% of consumers surveyed expect fashion brands to pay attention to employee health in times of crisis. In a consumer survey for the India Sustainability Report 2020, a white paper by digital magazine The Voice of Fashion, 49% of respondents said they want to adopt sustainable practices, while 65% are willing to pay more for responsibly made fashion.

Together, fashion companies realign priorities. Kering, the parent company of Gucci, Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen, released its first progress report on sustainability at the ChangeNOW Summit in January – on reducing emissions, suppliers and traceability of key raw materials. H&M has invested in sustainability into “100 percent circular”. India’s Aditya Birla Fashion Retail Ltd was named the Sustainable Company of the Year in 2019 in the 4.0 Sustainability Assessment and Award by Frost & Sullivan and the Energy and Resources Institute.

In India, the dialogue is inconsistent. Most clothing and jewelry retail brands were reluctant to be questioned. The majority of designers feel entitled to reject transparency surveys. Country artisans or weavers, one-half of the main duos who created the country fashion, remain disproportionately placed. From credit to copyrights to revenue and technological innovation, the game continues to gravitate toward urban designers and entrepreneurs.

The blank white cover of Vogue Italia in April, a first in the magazine’s history, was a response to the Covid-19 crisis. “White is rebirth, light after darkness …” said the magazine’s editor-in-chief, Emanuele Farneti.

Blank slate is a necessity of Indian fashion. To document the search for its meaning, go beyond busy crossroads in 2020. A sensitivity vaccine will help.

Shefalee Vasudev is editor of The Voice of Fashion and author of Powder Room: The Untold Story Of Indian Fashion.


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