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If Gen Z kills fast fashion, why is fast fashion still booming? | Instant News


The number of people shopping for secondhand goods has spiked in recent years – but for countless complex reasons, they are not ready to leave Boohoo haul. past

Generation Z’s shopping habits could spell the end of fast fashion“; “Saves as rebellion: How Gen Z kills fast mode“; “Gen Z is leading the evolution in shopping that can kill brands as we know themThese headlines, and others like them, have peppered newspapers, business journals, and fashion publications for the past 18 months. And they were right, to a point. thredUP‘s 2020 report said the second-hand market will hit $ 64 billion in the next five years, eventually surpassing fast fashion by 2029 – and Gen Z and millennials adopting secondhand goods. faster than other age groups.

Reports like these are certainly reassuring as we get more exposed dark stomach fast fashion industry, but they ignore one fact that cannot be missed: fast fashion is booming. Arcadia will go into administration, Forever21 filed bankruptcy, and H&M made plans to close 250 stores worldwide it may seem to signal the beginning of the end for fast fashion but consumers are only raising the stick and heading for cheaper, faster e-commerce retailers.

Despite allegations of unsafe and unfair working conditions at the Leicester supplier factory, Boohoo continues to sell it up 45 percent between February and August 2020, amid the peak of the pandemic, the number of buyers increased by about a third, to 17.4 million. Around this time, the internet searched for “cheap clothes” jumped 46 percent, while Missguided saw sales of her swimwear increase 700 percent, and people are more likely to search for expensive clothing under £ 5.

Loss of a job and low incomes may be the answer to why some are embracing low-cost fast fashion brands like Boohoo, Missguided, and Pretty Little Thing, which sell items for prices. as little as 8p in his Black Friday sale. “The main reason I buy a fast fashion item is because of the price,” says author Zoe May. “Clothing that is made in a more ethical and local way is often so much more expensive that consumers like me can feel appreciated for making those moral decisions.”

17 year old Rosa agrees. “The biggest reason (why I shop for fast fashion) is because I have a very low income,” they say. “Another reason is that I’m a fat person so my regular size is XL, but I’m also autistic so I don’t wear that size because of sensory problems. I actually wear the 4 or 5XL most of the time and continuous mode excludes this size a lot. “

Jessie, 20, also cites sensory issues as a driving force for buying fast fashion. “I am autistic and certain substances can trigger sensory overload for me,” they say. “I feel like sensory accessibility is not something a lot of people consider when it comes to making ethical clothing accessible to people. Returns, especially free ones, are very important for me to find clothes that I can actually wear because I end up having to return a lot of things. “

From size inclusiveness to revenue, many have undeniable reasons for switching to fast mode. However, it is not only those who need fast fashion which is the reason for the booming of fast fashion. Many still buy even though they have the means to buy elsewhere, as beautifully illustrated when a model complained that his £ 18 Missguided jumpsuit had damaged his £ 60k Porsche.

“The ‘poor’ argument is intellectually dishonest,” the fashion writer wrote Aja Barber commented in 2020. “Fast fashion is a problem perpetuated by the middle class and the rich. The poor don’t collectively have the funds to keep this cycle very profitable. “

So why do so many continue to insist that they can’t afford alternatives to fast fashion when they make multiple purchases every month or week?

“People are not good at math, especially when they are impulsive,” says Kate Nightingale, chief consumer psychologist and founder of Psychological Style. “In addition, the emotional and psychological benefits of five or six quick suits can be different from one or two sustainable clothing. We need a different way to market sustainability that goes deeper into our souls and fulfills a desire other than just being environmentally friendly. “

“Clothes that are made in a more ethical and local way are often so much more expensive that consumers like me can feel valued for making those moral decisions” – Zoe May

Different desires may explain the many young people who do not sit firmly in one camp, instead shopping for second-hand and quick clothes to meet different needs. For Claudia, 26, fast fashion is about convenience, availability and price. “If I wanted a black roll-neck long sleeve top I could actually type it and (ASOS) gave me a choice. If I don’t continue there, where will I get the things I specifically want? “But his shopping habits have conflicted feelings. “If I’m going to buy it, it will be in my conscience. So now that I’m learning more, I’m like, “No, I shouldn’t be doing this, but I really like this boss!”, “He said.

“I do recognize the impact of fast fashion,” continued Claudia, citing human rights issues and an “environmental perspective” as pointers for shopping for secondhand goods. “It’s much better to give love to things that already have a little life, and are usually a little more unique too,” he said.

But for Claudia, used goods alone didn’t answer her needs. “I want to see the end of fast fashion, of course. I just feel like used goods are everywhere, ”he said.

25-year-old Madeleine agrees. “The reasons I shop for fast fashion are ease of access, time savings, and lower costs,” he said. “And I know it’s naughty because of its environmental impact, but the other reason is how easy it is to return items that don’t fit or don’t suit you.”

Like Claudia, Madeleine cites “environmental reasons” for shopping for secondhand goods, and she values ​​vintage goods of a higher quality, buying jeans, shoes, and jumpers that are made to last. “I bought ‘vintage’ Pepe jeans from eBay for £ 12 and I guarantee they will last longer than I ASOS,” he said.

He recently limited his spending on ASOS after hearing how they treated their warehouse workers during the lockdown but questioned directly as a viable replacement for fast mode. “I feel that accessibility to fashionable second-hand items can be limited,” he said. “Sometimes it can be a scramble for cash and prices go up massively for what it is. Just look at Depop and the number of Y2K items and their prices. “

Taking into account the disconnect between Gen Z and millennials being pegged as generation ‘wake up’ who will save the world and they continue to invest in fast fashion, Nikolas Rønholt, a Masters student at Aarhus University, leaves for research problem. Working with her partner Malthe Overgaard, she interviewed consumers between the ages of 22 and 26, which included crosses between the Gen Z and Millennial age groups.

Offering participants anonymity allows them the freedom to be honest in their answers. “Liking clothes is the most important thing,” commented one participant. “Then I started compromising with my other beliefs. If I believe a shirt from (a fast fashion brand) is good, I buy it even if it’s not sustainably produced – also because I can get it for a cheap price. “

This reason is similar to that of Sam *, who chose not to give out their real name. “I really do shop fast fashion for selfish reasons,” they tell me. “I disagree with that and try to be environmentally conscious for the rest of my life. I use reusable water bottles and sanitary products, I don’t drive, and I avoid plastic if I can, but I do it even if it’s not a financial necessity. It depends on the choice. I want to be able to browse 500 skirts in one place and buy and try tons of them. “

Significantly, the anonymity that allows people to discuss discrepancies between their values ​​and their spending habits also enables them. “With low prices, easy return policies, and free shipping, marketers have significantly simplified the consumer purchasing decision process. As a result, purchases that are completed online require minimal cognitive consideration from the consumer, ”said Rønholt.

“I really do go shopping for fast fashion for selfish reasons. I disagree with that and try to be environmentally conscious for the rest of my life. I use reusable water bottles and sanitary products, I don’t drive, and I avoid plastics if I can, but I do it even though it’s not a financial necessity. ”- Sam *

Nightingale notes how e-commerce brands take advantage of not only anonymity, but also on the psychological traits and needs of their target market. “We need to remember that Gen Z is currently at an age where they are still developing their identity,” he explained. “That means they need to try different views to find out who they are, who they want to be, and how people react to them in these various views. That, coupled with underdeveloped impulse control, makes them more vulnerable to many tactics that affect the subconscious and trigger impulsivity. “

Despite indulging in fast fashion, many consumers are aware of its impact and struggle to adapt their purchases to their values. “Clothing becomes more expensive if it is sustainable and that makes me ignore it, even though I know that I should probably buy it instead of a 30DKK (£ 3.63) shirt to sell,” one of Rønholt’s sources noted.

“It’s something that really upsets me,” said Rosa. “Fast fashion being the only accessible mode for me is actually not true because I am a climate activist and navigating that duality is weird.”

Ultimately, consumers want to see the changes that come from the brand. “Our findings reveal a paradoxical attitude among fast fashion consumers in the sense that even though sustainability is neglected in their fashion decisions, they still expect fast fashion brands to promote sustainability,” said Rønholt.

Nine out of ten Gen Z consumers believe that companies have a responsibility to address environmental and social concerns, but price – even when it’s not a necessity – continues to drive their decisions. So, it seems like it’s up to the brand to make sure every purchase is an ethical purchase. “It’s not a decision I had to make in the first place,” said Jessie.

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We still haven’t forgotten the Bridgerton Shygirl fashion fantasy | Instant News


ICYMI, the whole world is crazy for the new Netflix That Crown-Fulfill-Gossip Girl drama period, Bridgerton, so it was only a matter of time before the obsession began to spread to fashion. Apart from being endless ICT tock video exploring what’s dubbed ‘regencycore’ and girls wearing corsets everywhere you look, British rapper Shy girl channel the era in her latest music video “Tasty” in a string of candy-colored ball gowns and 19th century blonde curls. Needless to say, we liked him a lot.

Meanwhile, celebrities have shown off many appearances in the first weeks of the new year, with Gigi Hadid her dollar blazer accessory in New York, and Dua Lipa showing off her open g-string on her troubled tropical getaway. And, thanks to the double bumpers Drag Race season (thank you Ru!), we saw the iconic pervert of the queen Symone, which occupies the top position in a custom BCALLA x House of Avalon boxing fit, and belongs to England Bimini Bon-Boulash, which recreates the blue tartan look previously worn by legendary British DJs and writers Princess Julia.

Elsewhere, we also saw some of the bizarre jewelry features of Marc Jacobs and LoveLeo, and a little hair turned off FKA branch, Steve Lacy, and Lil ‘Kim. Check out the gallery below for the week’s best.

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Fashion pioneers are driving a lot in 2020 | Instant News


In a year the industry faces its calculations and failures being put forward, Aurora James, Lindsay Peoples Wagner, Sandrine Charles, and others are struggling to make a change

2020 puts the fashion off track. That COVID-19 The pandemic saw fashion week canceled and moved online, physical retailing to a halt in its tracks, and a large part of global supply chains come grind to a halt, as unsent orders piled up in the factory corridor. With little else to distract us, brands are put on duty because it makes garment workers destitute and exposes others hazardous working conditions. Some take the opportunity to get off the treadmill and ask for a a slower industry while others stop trading completely, cannot recover from lost sales revenue.

Between the turmoil and the increasing number of deaths from the pandemic, homicide George Floyd – and subsequent highlights on the killing of other blacks including Breonna Taylor and Ahmaud Arbery – thrust The Black Lives Matter Movement become a global advantage. The resulting focus on anti-racism reveals deep-rooted inequalities in the fashion industry, from the absence of representation on the catwalks to a lack of employees and support for Black-owned brands. Platform like Man Repeller have to take it into account troubled past, finally shutting down in October, while countless brands, from high-end to high street, were called upon for a number of histories (and not very historic) racist behavior.

While some have made 2020 a lost year, one to be forgotten, others have seen it as a catalyst for change, capitalizing on the momentum of global unrest to push for something better. Get to know the pioneers who are determined to make 2020 count, challenge the norm and change the face of the industry as they move along.

AURORA JAMES, 15 PERCENT PEDGE

Aurora James is an experienced member in the fashion industry, who has established an artisanal accessory brand Brother Vellies back in 2013. Yet this year’s events prompted him to question the intentions and integrity of his comrades. “When it all happened and George Floyd was murdered, I had two different experiences,” said James. “I read all the emails I get from these companies that are like, ‘We support you,’ and see them on Instagram, and I don’t really feel it. I am reading it, but I don’t believe it or feel it. “

Reflecting on past experiences and disappointments made him realize that he needed clear metrics to gauge whether people were genuinely willing to support him, so he devised 15 Percent Pledge. Starting life as a campaign and growing into a non-profit organization, this initiative asks major retailers to commit a minimum of 15 percent of their shelf space to Black-owned businesses, representing that black people make up 15 percent of the US population.

So far, people like Macy’s, Bloomingdales, and Mode had taken the oath, leaving James stunned. He noted, however, that he was “saddened by several companies, including Moda Operandi and SSENSE, which chose not to become publicly involved”.

“Why would I want to entrust my creative expression to a company for profit when the company doesn’t respect me and or my friends as human beings?” she says. Although some refused to get involved, however, James remained on the alert, ready to work with those who wanted. “You need someone to help you? Sure, I have all the speed dial experts ready to assist any business looking to step up and do this. Whatever help you need, we’ve got you covered. But they must really want to do the job. “

For the future? “I really want to see Net-A-Porter take the oath. “I want to see Matches, Nordstrom and Saks take their oath,” he said. “I believe that people can change.”

LINDSAY AND SANDRINE CHARLES ‘AWARDS, BLACK IN FASHION COUNCIL

Seeds for The Black in Fashion Council (BIFC) was planted two years ago when Lindsay Peoples Wagner, editor in chief Teen Vogue, wrote an article entitled “What it feels like to be Black and work in the fashion world”. The article detailed racism, inequality, and social barriers at every level of industry. Recognizing the need for far-reaching systemic change, Peoples Wagner worked closely with PR specialists Sandrine Charles and launched BIFC in June this year, which aims to promote structural and internal measures that truly address inclusiveness.

The BIFC team is made up of stylists, influencers, editors, models and freelancers who have got together and, in just a few months, are close to signing up. 100 brands, from IMG to Ralph Lauren. Those who have signed up commit to a three-year pledge for inclusion and receive the tools they need to stay accountable, as well as an annual equivalency score, based on the newly introduced BIFC equality index.

“The process is long, but we are determined to see actual change and progress in the industry,” said Peoples Wagner Harper’s Bazaar earlier this year. “Creating a whole new industry standard as far as inclusiveness has not been done before, but it is needed now more than ever.”

AYESHA BARENBLAT, REMAKE

“In many ways, I think COVID is opening up the injustice, injustice and imbalance of the fashion industry’s power,” said Ayesha Barenblat, founder and CEO of the non-profit organization. Remake, which aims to “turn fashion into a force for good”. Raised in Karachi, Pakistan among members of a family who owned a factory, Barenblat was struck by the colonial nuances of ethical and sustainable fashion conversations when he moved to California to study. “All that points is going to the factory to say they are the ones who commit all the offenses in the global south, and we have to teach these brown people how to respect them,” he said. “There’s absolutely no conversation around what brand behavior is causing this breach.”

Remake was born out of Barenblat’s desire to advocate for “the extraordinary Millennial and Gen Z women on the other end (in manufacturing centers like Cambodia and Bangladesh) fighting for justice”. In sharing stories, Barenblat is able to paint a picture of activism rather than being a victim. That strategy remained in place earlier this year when Remake was launched Pay, a campaign run jointly with labor organizers and trade union leaders on the ground, is calling on brands to pay for orders worth billions of dollars that were canceled in a bid to stem COVID-19 revenue losses.

More than 270,000 Remake petitions have been signed and millions are involved with the online hashtag – which was drafted at Zoom’s 7am meeting – but, for Barenblat, it was the behind-the-scenes work that mattered most. “We’re just reinforcing the hard work of the women who are out there protesting on the streets, being beaten by the police, and still demanding their wages,” he said.

As we speak, 23 brands have paid off, but Barenblat and Remake are not slowing down the speed. “Arcadia is on our minds, especially when they enter administration,” he says, pointing out how brands filing for bankruptcy often pay shareholders and investors before even thinking about garment suppliers and workers. And then comes the next six steps in the seven-point plan for major regulatory reform, which Barenblat is preparing as we enter the new year. “I really see this as a bright moment if we can achieve it. The women who make our fashions are hungry, so we can’t stop fighting now. “

SHARON CHUTER, PULL FOR CHANGE

“We are just getting started in terms of our mission and the journey ahead, but I am very, very happy with where we are today,” he said. Sharon Fall, founder, CEO, and creative director Uoma beauty which, in May this year, was launched Pull For Change. This organization aims to promote transparency around Black’s representation in the beauty industry. The #PullUpOrShutUp challenge asks all brands that have released statements of support for Black Lives Matter to publicly announce the number of Black employees they have in their organizations at the corporate level.

“The first brand to catch on is Dairy Cosmetics,” Chuter said. “They were the first to take it and put it on their grid and I think it sets the standard.” Other beauty brands that joined Milk in accentuating their figure are Huda Beauty, Sleek, Lime Crime, L’oreal USA, and Glossier. Now, the movement has grown to target brands outside the beauty sphere and Chuter has successfully engaged a number of sectors, from fashion brands and media, to sportswear giants and tech companies.

While some are happy to face challenges, some are less willing. Chuter was very surprised that Fenty Beauty did not stop. “Everyone thought they were going to be first, as a company they are trying so hard about inclusivity and diversity,” he said. It was a cricket, deadly silence.

But despite certain disappointments, no one can argue that Chuter hasn’t started anything particularly significant yet. He can count Nordstrom, Birchbox, Levi’s, and Everlane among the companies he’s encouraged to stop and take action. And he won’t let them rest on their laurels. “Every six months we want to check in,” he said. Pulling Up is just the beginning for these brands.

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Clothing stores in NYC are closed before election day | Instant News


A familiar sight throughout 2020, luxury clothing shops in New York cleared their stocks and closed their windows ahead of today’s election.

In Manhattan, people like Path, Dior, Loewe, Fendi, and Louis Vuitton all had closed shops, as workers covered their facades with plywood. Convenience stores including Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s have also closed.

With Trump signaled he may not accept the election results and hinted he could refuse to leave the White House until all the votes were counted – a process that could take weeks – the move to store front boards arose over fears of post-election civil unrest and potential protests. accompanied by growing violence.

Many shops that are taking measures to protect their premises also close their windows during Black Lives Matter the protests that followed George Floydmurder earlier this year. In New York, Gucci, Nike, and Bloomingdale’s were raided, while in LA, including the boutique Rodeo Drive Alexander McQueen and Marc Jacobs become a target.

While many condemn looting, it is Marc Jacobs – whose logo has been crossed out and replaced with Sandra Bland‘s name – support the protests, posted a photo of his shop on Instagram with the caption “Life cannot be replaced. Black Lives Matter. ”

Make sure your voice is heard by voting for the day election, and revisit our guide on how to protest safely here.

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Selena Gomez signed up for a fashion thriller – and other news | Instant News


via Prada

Physical mode week will probably still be around

You may hope to never read the word ‘phygital’ again, and we mean the same, but it looks like there is a chance that things may not return to normal post-COVID. A new report by the CFDA details the impact of NYFW on the planet, with the event producing 480,000 tonnes of carbon dioxide each season – thanks, not least, for the number of flights that fashion people take to the city. With the CFDA currently planning to hold more virtual events during February Fashion Week, you can check out the full report here.

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