In our tradition, women are responsible for water. This calico skirt, luxuriously crafted with satin ribbon stripes, is definitely our responsibility. Peggy Flanagan, White Earth Band of Ojibwe and our lieutenant governor here in Minnesota, proudly wears her water skirt and fiercely opposes the Line 3 pipeline, which will disrupt our expanses of wild rice, cross the headwaters of the Mississippi River, and contribute to immeasurable climatic chaos. .
Indigenous people make special tribal clothing for a variety of reasons – to express a sense of belonging, attend ceremonies, show resistance, and dance. Most importantly, I think our clothes make for a simple point. We’re still here. There are 574 federally recognized tribal states in the US. What we wear is unique to our particular ethnic background. As I say, my looks are always mixed but include Chippewa, Ojibwe, or Anishinaabe influences, as well as Métis forest-based patterns and intricate flower beads. This style has been most beautifully interpreted by the artist Métis Christi Belcourt, who painted it Water Song used as the basis for some of Valentino’s pieces in 2015.
In this post, I don’t want to invite a careless person to wear Indigibberish attire like a fake eagle feather headdress or a plastic bone pipe breastplate. So I’m going to divide real clothing into two categories: traditional authentic clothing and sacred contemporary clothing. In the first category, there is a jingle dress, a healing garment that uses a metal cone. The shaking from the cones is mesmerizing; the voice was meant to heal. The Mille Lacs Museum and Trade Post of India in Minnesota put on a show about the jingle dress, curated by Brenda Child, Red Lake Nation, which includes a gown made of a female police uniform. Maria Hupfield’s artist, Wasauksing First Nation, has created a jingle dress out of plain blue lined writing paper, printed with the names of more than 500 Native North American authors. Families across India are pooling resources to equip their powwow dancers with intricate formal wear that is unrepeatable and impossible to mass produce. How do you produce love?
In the second category, there are soft footwear, perfect for working at home. As I write this, I am wearing a pair of moccasins from Manitobah Mukluks, a company owned by Indigenous people. Beyond Buckskin owner Jessica Metcalfe, Turtle Mountain Chippewa, is looking to source grassroots designers who incorporate the Ojibwe language into objects available from her online shop. The non-profit Honor the Earth sells bold graphic designs that anyone can wear to show solidarity with Indigenous struggles for climate justice.
These days, the only way I can express Indigeneity in public life is by wearing jewelry, especially beaded earrings, on Zoom appearances. An antique beaded wheel made by Pe Hin Sa Win, The Red Hair Woman, gave me the comfort of a family friend. Josef Reiter’s heavy silver Anishinaabe cuffs gave me strength. My oldest daughter’s sweetgrass birch bark hoop earrings remind me of our language. Another girl made me a medal with the wings of a golden eagle that symbolizes my name Ojibwe.
I know who makes the special things that I wear. I know the history of each design. Each piece has a meaning that gives depth to the moment, the day, my life. I wear jewelery that brings me close to where I came from and to the earth; I have had rich relationships with people who make my favorite clothes and jewelry. And I feel extra satisfaction when I wear something that expresses that connection and also expresses myself. Isn’t that about fashion?
Louise Erdrich is the author of more than 20 books, including National Award winning novels Round Building.
Gray Sorrenti’s Photography. Thanks to Loewe’s kindness.
Now that’s a week, huh? With everything happening since we quietly opened the lid on the new year, we understand that fashion is not yet on the top of your radar. But that’s why we are here! We don’t want to see you out of the loop, so we’ve put together a handy list of all the coolest submissions over the past seven days. With a new newsletter released every week, think of this as your place to find news on everything from major industry moments to the most exciting releases and blockbuster campaigns. With all that said, this is what is trending this week.
Gray Sorrenti’s Photography
Loewe x My Neighbor Totoro brings the world much-needed excitement
“There is a natural yearning for heartwarming feelings right now,” he said Jonathan Anderson. That’s right, J-Dubz! With a 2021 look … okay, don’t go out there, it’s clear that it will take a lot of magic to reverse this one. Fortunately, Loewe the creative director and his team have brought that to us, working with Studio Ghibli to make My neighbor Totoro capsule! As a testament to Loewe and Studio Ghibli’s “mutual love of craft and artisanal technique”, the collection features Totoro motifs made into pieces such as the Puzzle bag and the Spanish house Balloon using a technique known as leather coasters – with which the pieces are cut. Small pieces of leather are cut and fitted into a leather bag – while casual T-shirts, tees, culottes, and Mohair sweaters come in jacquard intarsia and all-over patterns.
If that piece alone isn’t enough to get you somewhere else, Gray Sorrenticampaign will. The models become characters as Mei and Satsuki, playing hide and seek in a dappled forest lifted straight from the world of “the serenity of dreams and immediate creativity – at one with nature and with her own inner child.” Take us with you, Jonathan, please !! MS
Mitchell Sams Photography
Bottega Veneta quit social media
Who doesn’t love starting the new year with a resolution? Bottega Veneta announced this week that unlimited digital detoxification is required to begin in 2021. New year, #NewBottega? Last night, nearly four million of his followers became ghosts. Sure, we all know social media has its pros and cons, but this announcement is a bit odd for Dry’s (not everyone’s, it should be noted) fashion house which arguably spawned thousands of selfies with its Insta. friendly woven mules, puffy grips, and a blingy image. IndoDouglas Greenwood investigate the possible reasons that ‘New Bottega’ has stepped off social media. Is that the creative director who is notoriously shy and Celine alumnus, Daniel Lee? Is this a smart publicity stunt? Is this a protest against the annoying move of online consumerism? Find it here. OA
Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Urs Fischer reinterprets Louis Vuitton’s Monogram
We said it here and we’ll say it again: few do similar fashion / art collaborations Louis Vuitton. After working with the mainstays of the contemporary art world Cindy Sherman and Takashi Murakami, the latest visionary artist to be bugged by the house is Urs Fischer. This is not the first time a Swiss artist has worked on the house. In 2019, he was one of six artists selected to redesign the Capucines bag. This time, he’s expanded his abilities, reimagining the LV Monogram as a bubble-written “memory sketch,” which has been translated as velvet relief on canvas. Cheerful patterns have been applied throughout the iconic Louis Vuitton bags – Speedys, Neverfuls, lots – as well as ready-to-wear shoes and clothing. Tightening up the wallet this month? Now, resolutions are made to be broken, right? MS
Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
Get the rarest Louis Vuitton sneakers from Virgil
But wait! There’s more news from the land of Louis Vuitton! On the menswear side, Virgil Abloh has started sparking anticipation for the upcoming AW21 collection, which will be showcased on January 21, with a series of events in the town called the home. Under the banner “Louis Vuitton: A Walk in the Park”, Paris will be taken over by a series of IRL ‘activations’. The first, a pop-up shop at 28 Quai de la Mégisserie, is open today. There, Virgil stans can find rare sneakers from the attractively dubbed “Hall of Fame”, in addition to the chainlink jewelery that Virgil has made as the main motif of the collection. MS
Mitchell Sams Photography
Alber Elbaz is back!
Who is Alber Elbaz? Israeli designers are creative directors Yves Saint Laurent back in the day, but made a name for itself on Lanvin, which she turned in the late ’00s into a byword for fancy, jewel-toned fashion fantasies. Now, the designer is back on his own: AZFactory. He will make his debut during Paris Couture Week, and if its reputation was reliable, this would be one to watch out for. Read all about his return here. OA
Dior shares the process of making their new bag
In the world of fashion, hardly a day goes by without feeling like you are being bombarded with more new stuff with an insane price tag. However, take a moment to look into the processes behind some of them, and you will likely be rewarded with the special care, expertise, and expertise invested into them. In a new video demonstrating the artisanal savoir-faire of the home leather shop in Italy, it’s just a chance Dior offers, provides an exclusive overview of the latest additions to making Maria Grazia Chiuriaccessory warehouse: Dior Caro. First introduced in a stunning home Cruise Show 2021 in Puglia, we witnessed every step of the way in making a calf leather bag, from attaching the ‘CD’ clamp to the quilting process, which only required 18,000 stitches. As inviting for a DIY project lockout sounds, it’s probably best to leave the hard work up to the professionals and nibble on your local Dior to pick it up yourself. MS
Thanks to Dior’s kindness
Dior celebrates Chinese New Year with Stussy
In other Dior related news, the fashion house has launched a capsule menswear collection to celebrate next month’s Chinese New Year. This marks the second (!!!) collaboration between Kim Jones and streetwear legends Shawn Stussy, who took their hand-drawn monogram further and gave the ox (the animal that symbolizes honesty, perseverance, and hard work in the Chinese zodiac) a remarkable makeover for Dior. Perfect for grabbing the 2021 horn. OA
Thanks to Prada
Prada pondered the big questions in life for SS21
What happened after the season’s most anticipated show? The most anticipated campaign of course! Yes, right, the first one Prada campaign under mutual creative direction Raf Simons here. Harnessing the distinctly existential vibes of our time, the campaign featured images of Hime-cut sports models in a collection of hand-held coats overlaid with blocky text asking questions like “What utopia are you striving for?” and “Does the ‘cloud’ make you think of data or the sky?”. Although intended as a meditation on questions of “self-perception, views on technology, humanitarian ideas – diversity, inclusiveness, sustainability,” according to Prada, internet residents quickly followed the campaign’s sage tone to create lots of soft-ribbed memes that we’ll allow you to search for. in your own time (ok, we’ll wait here – but hurry!). MS
Martin Margiela will be back
Calling all Margiela stans! Martin’s second coming is near! Okay, that might be a little over the top, but it’s a culturally revered Belgian is returns to the public sphere for the first time since leaving his eponymous home in 2009. However, his fashion followers may be a little discouraged to hear that he will return not as a designer, but as an oh artist – very serious.
In an exhibition titled neat Martin MargielaInvisible photos, sculptures and other works of art will be posted at Lafayette Anticipations in Paris from April 15 to July 25. According to a statement shared with Security, it will “[celebrate] the idea that Martin Margiela has always been an artist, whose work has played since, inside and outside the world of art. [He] always makes us see things with fresh eyes. Going against the tide, he cultivated an obsession for wise people, abandoned objects and forgotten places and events, giving them new dignity. ”
Of course, Martin is not the first person to retire from fashion to fine arts. He will follow in the footsteps of Helmut Lang, which since stepping down from its namesake label in 2005 has focused on material-oriented practices. Group show? Hope… MS
Camping gets more tents, thanks to Gucci
2021 will be all about the great outdoors. We are not talking about restaurants, pubs or nightclubs. But in the future, nature invites. Brisk. Staycations. Wrap up warm. So, this is the perfect time to Gucci‘s collaboration with The North Face, which launches this week and is available at Selfridges. A wonderfully ornate Alessandro-ism encounter and utilitarian active wear, there are puffed-out puffers, sturdy leather hiking boots with Goodyear-welted soles, and hiking backpacks made using ECONYL, a pioneering nylon fabric sourced from regenerating ingredients such as fishing nets and carpets. . This campaign took camping to a whole new level, and it’s even there a mini documentary on an off-kilter collaboration created by artist Sean Vegezzi. Gucci tent, anyone? OA
A guided tour is a centuries-old tradition. For many vacationers, that means boarding a bus packed with fellow travelers and listening to a paid guide tell stories about local sites.Today, this guided tour is often done in the comfort of your car with your driver. family or friends for other travelers. And thanks to travel apps like GyPSy, it has never been easier to plan and execute these events. The narrated driving tour is just a selection from the thriving category of travel apps. GyPSy currently offers tours to 37 destinations with a cost ranging from free to $ 19.99 with selections from Kauai, Las Vegas and Miami-Key West to Vermont’s Route 100 Scenic Byway. The app can be downloaded before departure and played offline on a smartphone or tablet, requiring no current cellular or wi-fi service. Features include itineraries, local excursions, and behind-the-scenes stories about cultural features, hikes, and – a young favorite – animals likely to be encountered along the way. “We loved GyPSy because it helped us understand the historical and geological significance of where we were at every turn,” said Josh Logsdon of Yakima. He and his wife Addy (a contributor to Yakima magazine) spent 10 days in September visiting Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks. Logsdon explained that the couple’s three children “certainly learned a lot while seeing amazing animals.” Yakima residents and longtime campers Terese and Jesse Padilla have traded in their RVs for a small trailer this year and have canceled trips that include commercial passenger flights. Terese, who has studied travel books for years, said her favorite apps are Airbnb and VRBO. “The benefit of the pandemic for us was the time spent in state parks like Grayland Beach, Potholes, and Cascade Peaks Campground near Packwood,” Terese said. “We are planning many more regional adventures in the spring.” The winter weather is less of a deterrent for retired snowbirds like Gay Dorsey and Mike Poppoff. The Yakima couple travel internationally for pleasure and business. Although this was reduced in 2020, Dorsey still has a list of proven apps to build on. “When we travel to foreign countries, we use WorldCurrency for exchange rates and Google Translate for language issues, as well as Google Maps, of course,” she says. “I take a lot of books with me on the plane using the Kindle app on my iPad. The other thing that keeps me busy is the NY Times crossword app and I’m never without OpenTable for dinner reservations, and Jazzercize on Demand and MapMyWalk so I can practice wherever I am. Favorite sites like Tom’s Guide, Oprah Magazine, Tripsavvy, TripAdvisor and even PC Magazine as well as organizations like AAA and AARP all have recommendations for the best travel apps. Apps vary in ease of use or content, but they all have one thing in common: helping navigate what’s happening on the road. Many are free or available at minimal cost from the App Store or Google Play and can be installed and configured before you go. Regardless of the travel destination, when looking for travel assistance, there’s likely a site that APPly. .
If you’re like me, you’ve crossed your fingers and prayed that the New Year would be better than the one we just survived. Of course, that starts with beating the coronavirus and protecting human life. But here are a few other ways that I hope 2021 can be an improvement over 2020. First, I hope we can start exploring all corners of the world again. And number two, I hope we can be a little nicer to each other no matter how much we might disagree. Number one and number two are related. We wrapped up this issue towards the end of a year marked not only by the pandemic but also by even more resentment than usual, culminating in the controversial election that took place as we put the magazine to bed. It was a reminder that the journey naturally takes us to people who live totally different lives from ours, who have different opinions, different priorities, different belief systems. Travel teaches us that such differences are worth celebrating. These are the learnings we would all be wise to take home: Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse in Acadia National Park. Nearby, Cadillac Mountain sees the first dawn in the United States on New Years Day Daniel Andrews That’s why you’ll find the following pages full of stories about the communities: the bakers of Paris, the creative class in Costa Rica, the beach lovers in Sydney, artisans in Yucátan and Mallorca, and sustainability pioneers in the ski regions of America as well as in the Swedish town of Gothenberg. Meeting people like these and inhabiting their world for a little while is also an invitation to build a spirit of community in the place where you spend your daily life, without travel. In October, just before the elections, I interviewed Sara Nelson, a United Airlines flight attendant and the international president of the Association of Flight Attendants-CWA, about the election, the coronavirus and the future of her industry. She worried about a lot of things, naturally, but people’s desire to come back there wasn’t one of them. “I firmly believe that travel is going to have a big comeback,” she told me. “People will be ready to go, they will want to see each other. Virtual meetings have connected people in a new way, but what we’ve noticed in the industry is that the more people are connected through technology, the more they want to travel, the more they want to be together. We wish you to be together in person in 2021 – all over this beautiful planet. This article appeared in the January / February 2021 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.More inspiration from Condé Nast Traveler: 21 Best Places to Go in 2021The 50 Most Beautiful University Campuses in AmericaWeird Facts About America50 Things To Do In Europe At Least Once In A Lifetime beautiful places in the world The best travel movies of all time.
The link of all the beneficiaries will be the oil companies (“The new form of travel: how to play it”, cover, December 24). If air travel returns to pre-Covid levels, airlines will return to their pre-Covid fuel purchase levels. Cruise lines do not run on electricity. The big question is, will companies ditch Zoom meetings? Office buildings and the lack of commuters and car wear and tear can be negative, but kids who go back to school and come home and find Dad unshaven and still in his slippers eating all the Snickers in the house could get things back on track. . Terrence Milan, on Barrons.com To Editor: Steve Reynolds, CEO of Tripbam Analytics, reportedly said, “Everyone wants to come back to a conference or trade show,” I’m going to have to see some data to back this up. very broad statement. Businesses that depend on trade shows for their sales and income would certainly love the conferences to resume, but I’m not sure the businesses of potential attendees feel the same. At the level of personal travelers, I don’t hear anyone talking about their desire to get back into the fray of business travel. It wasn’t a particularly enjoyable way of life before the pandemic, so I think there will be some permanent changes that aren’t expected as people have learned that all travel is just not necessary. Sorry, travel bulls. Thomas Steele, on Barrons.com The Fed’s Dual Mandate To Editor: I understand the Federal Reserve has a dual mandate to maximize employment and keep prices stable, but Neel Kashkari’s idea that the Fed has not been responsible for low interest rates for the past 16 years months is straining credulity (“It would be ruinous to raise rates now to ‘normal’ levels, says Minneapolis Fed chief,” interview, December 24). The Fed tried to shrink its balance sheet a bit in 2019 until mid-September, when a Fed auction exploded and short-term rates shot up to nearly 10% when no one else was. is presented to bid on treasury bills. The Fed quickly reversed the course and printed hundreds of billions of dollars in new money to remove Treasury rates over the next six months. Then the Covid-19 emergency forced the Fed to further expand its balance sheet: Trillions of dollars were printed to buy back all government loans. I realize that we still have a soft labor market and that prices (if not FAANG stock prices) are stable. However, the idea that rates wouldn’t be higher if it weren’t for all this printing of money – both before and after the lockdowns – is not credible. Dan Munson, St. Paul, Minn. To the Editor: Kashkari’s ethereal comments on the banks are antithetical to those on the federal government’s capital reserves. He wants higher bank capital and reserves (which I agree with) but gives a pass to the national debt at around $ 28 trillion. All is well until you have rising unemployment, lower tax revenues, a pandemic, a struggling economy, and mass lockdowns. The Federal Reserve cannot print an unlimited amount of fictitious dollars or borrow heavily beyond a certain point. How can a renewal of the law on community reinvestment be beneficial in the long term? The 1977 legislation laid the groundwork for the 2008 crash, including requiring easier loans and mortgages to be made available to minorities, the underemployed and the poor to encourage the purchase and ownership of property. a home or business, regardless of loan repayment capacity or property location. BJ Khalifah, Grosse Pointe Park, Michigan To the Editor: Barron’s said that “Minnesota has some of the greatest social disparities in the country. This is to be expected when you consider that Minnesota has the highest number of refugees per capita of any state, almost all from poor countries. Importing poverty is not a problem the Federal Reserve can handle. JP Newell, Washington, DC Wants vs. Needs To the Editor: The pandemic has undoubtedly affected people, businesses and municipalities at all levels. However, we rarely read or hear of municipalities that can cut spending without always starting with employee layoffs (“Municipal budget crisis puts pressure on payroll. And direct federal stimulus is not coming,” The Economy, December 24). Both people and businesses have had to cut spending and are generally looking at cutting back on non-essentials. In good times, the expenses of all entities tend to go up and possibly beyond what is really necessary. As my granddaughter reminds me: is it a desire or a need? I think municipalities should look at spending over the past five to ten years and rank needs versus wants. Not all cuts have to start with employees, but excess facilities, services and administrative streamlining should be on the table to begin with. This is what the private sector has to do, so why not the public sector? Tom Timmermann, Dallas Send letters to: [email protected] To be considered for publication, correspondence must bear the author’s name, address and telephone number. Letters are subject to change. Corrections and Amplifications U.S.-listed shares of Alibaba Group Holding fell 13.3%, or $ 34.18, to $ 222 on December 24. The article “China Tells Alibaba It Means Business.” What this means for the stock, ”mistakenly stated that the shares fell to $ 34.18. Jeremy Grantham’s investment in QuantumScape was personal. The Preview article last week incorrectly said that Grantham had invested through his foundation. .