Tag Archives: make sense

London Fashion Label 16Arlington Brings Luxury, Luxury And Fetish Attention With Their Latest Collections | Instant News

Marco Capaldo and Kikka Cavenati are the duos behind the London-based fashion label, 16Arlington.

Founded in 2017, their brand exudes glamor, real charm. I mean the glamorous type of Jean Harlow that you associate with Hollywood young stars, but there is a cool London.

There are feathers, there are sequins, silk, leather, and crystals. What more do you want? And this killer silhouette adorns including hugging figures for mini halterneck and one shoulder midis. This is the best maximalism.

Brought to date, there are more important, pay closer attention and there is a collective harmony is disharmony – femininity and masculinity (see special blazers), minimalist and maximum, made sexiness and style without effort. Also not PG, besides that there is also a bit of mixed fetish. Hot.

And the appeal is real, so much so that they get their own Hollywooder, Lena Dunham to walk on their 2020 Spring / Summer catwalks at London Fashion Week (that was Dunham’s debut appearance as a runway model). Also seen they pocketed prominent stockists from Bergdorf Goodman and Kirna Zabete to Selfridges, Moda Operandi, Luisa through Rome and Lane Crawford all eager to follow their alluring lines. So I guess what needs to be done is to add a red carpet.

Felicity Carter: What was your first memory of fashion or style?

We always talk about how we are both very fashion conscious thanks to our mother.

Even though none of them work directly in fashion, they always have a high interest and interest in clothing. We often find ourselves referring to old photo albums and asking them to dig up old pieces that we found in them.

Kikka: My mother used to be a model in her 20s and was often paid for clothes. He will choose unusual special pieces that he normally doesn’t buy so I remember playing with these pieces often. Growing up, I always wanted him to have high heels, but he always liked to sew and very masculine footwear, so I would arrange these beautiful dresses with male lace and big blazer. That real contrast is something that I still applied when designing.

FC: How, when, why did you enter the industry?

We both studied women’s clothing at the University where we met. I think that is the first real formal introduction to this industry. After the collection of our graduates, we built some beautiful relationships with stylists, we both did internships for different design houses but really felt the urge to work together something together that is when we started working at 16Arlington.

Through our stylist being introduced to Lauren Santo Domingo, he put on one of our works which made Moda one of our first stockists.

FC: How do you summarize aesthetics?

Marco and I have real love and appreciation for all the beautiful things. I think that is the starting point of our true aesthetic is to create something beautiful and empowering. 16Arlington is a balance of two extremes, masculinity versus femininity, minimalism versus maximalism, a combination of our British / Italian heritage that creates this beautiful alignment when put in a container of excessive glamorous sexy Italian glamor and a relaxed and cool London and a casual touch of amulets.

FC: What is luxury for you?

For us, luxury is something that is formed in an object of desire. Something that makes your heart beat fast and makes you stop, observe, admire, and enjoy its beauty.

FC: Who are your customers?

We have never identified our customers with any limitations. We do not place age groups or jobs with our clients. For us, she is a woman who uses clothes to strengthen the beauty that is already there. We are truly fortunate to be able to work with a variety of inspirational women since starting a brand that we feel represents our customers. They are all very different and unique but all have something in common so they change the world in a positive way, making it a far more beautiful place.

FC: What do you each bring to the brand?

At the beginning of the trip I thought that we both bought something quite individually aesthetically for each collection but after working with each other and now in our fifth season our aesthetics have really been synchronized and worked in parallel which we don’t need to pay attention to who brings ideas or details specific to the table. I think the real thing that still exists is the eyes of men and women, Kikka is well aware of how women feel in the clothes we make. Marco has a tendency to push the thigh cleavage a little too high.

FC: What is the foundation of your company?

Being a young brand, we have always been very involved in every aspect of the company from the start, which made us learn a lot because the reality of brand building is that there is far more to it than just designing a collection every season. We always take a very direct approach and are still involved in every small aspect of the brand which certainly has weaknesses but also allows us to be very aware of how the brand works and develops. This combined with a very small dedicated team allowed us to get to this point. One of our greatest blessings is to think of one another to continually form rational decisions based on two opinions rather than one and that something both of which is very present both in business, everyday running the brand, and finally the collection itself.

FC: Which was the first time you designed it and how did it happen?

That’s a very difficult question, we made this fur coat very early and it was really about playing with the basic proportions of the coat. We created a large cocoon like this shaped coat to make you look like a pin falling into a fur ball. Another truly impressive creation is the performance we created for Jourdan Dunn and Edie Campbell for the 2018 British fashion award. These two performances are very different but truly represent extreme balance. Jourdan was wearing a strapless transparent lace sequin dress adorned with feathers that had a three-meter long train and Edie was wearing a suit that was completely polished in a limping icy blue with an oversized masculine satin collar.

FC: What’s on your mood board right now?

Nowadays it is quite difficult to channel creative inspiration when surrounded by such sadness but there are times where inspiration kicks in and creates pauses and also acts as a small form of escape. The atmosphere and ideas change quite quickly now and the adjustment from working under extreme pressure and tight deadlines to having more time to develop is something that you think will only benefit the process but in reality adjustments and uncertainties occupy many things. time.

FC: Tell me about the process from sketch to production …

The process from sketch to production is very interesting because each garment is made in a different way. Sometimes there is a very clear visual idea that we detail very deeply in sketches on paper and at other times it is something that comes alive attached to the body. Sometimes something made in a certain direction changes into something when the force inspires to go in a new direction. The process of developing a collection really is something that changes until the morning of the show. After the collection is displayed, it will be sold and seen by our stockists. We often develop exclusive works with our buyers and from our sales campaigns we really begin to understand how collections will be translated commercially. After the sale, we really spent a lot of time aligning clothes in production. Here we tweak the waist circumference bottom keyhole hemlines etc. Many things work well editorially or in show format when you create fantasy but don’t have to be translated into the real world. It is important to us that we keep our clothes as close to the dream as possible, but to make sure women can feel and feel great about wearing them.

FC: How would you like to see your label develop?

We are very fortunate to work with extraordinary stockists around the world and we look forward to continuing to develop our distribution in a very organic way. For us the goal is never to redistribute the collection, but to make it very special and available in a very beautiful space. We want to continue to build long-standing relationships with all our retail partners. We recently launched an exclusive bag collection with Net-a-Porter and we hope to explore more categories in the future as the brand develops into what we hope will become global.

Buy labels on their labels website and in leading stores globally.


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Poetic and Subversive, Knowing the Fashion Designer Collection, Nensi Dojaka | Instant News

Almost as if Nensi Dojaka can be part of the famous Antwerp Six in the field of fashion with aesthetics that you can describe in one word as: deconstructed. However, that was just before his time, he was a new wave avant-garde.

A new graduate from Central Saint Martins, the Albanian designer founded her eponymous brand while completing her BA at London College of Fashion three years ago. A bold move by Nensi, but with the luxury retailer Ssense on board as a stockist, why not.

And when it comes to his appearance, there is a convincing familiarity with the elements of deconstruction (this brings up memories of the Helmut 90s, Demeulemeester to the beginning of the naughies with a little McQueen) but also feels very ‘now’ when he draws inspiration from today. reality.

With the contrast played, the collection is confident, but then there is vulnerability, fragility versus severity. There are also different layers of fabric, which give depth and are matched with really thin material and bare skin for total thickness.

Nensi spoke about this new way of dressing and the contrast between poetry and subversion.

Felicity Carter: What is your first memory of fashion?

Nensi Dojaka: The Miu Miu dress that I got as a present for my birthday when I was 16 years old. It is very light and delicate and tastes valuable.

FC: You studied at Central Saint Martins – tell us why the school is interesting to you?

ND: I like the fact that the teachings revolve around your identity as a designer and get to the root of it. This is very important and brings out what is unique about your approach.

FC: That is a confident step to make your label while studying for your BA – what did you put on the bottom?

ND: I started working on ideas about brands at the end of my BA, but then developed them during my MA course at Central Saint Martins. In the beginning, it was a decision made purely from the passion I had for what I did. Then, after I started selling a few pieces of Ssense from my MA collection, it felt natural to advance to what I had started.

FC: Which designer, has an impact on your thinking?

ND: I admire so many designer works; especially designers like Helmut, Ann Demeulemeester, Alessandro Dell’acqua. I like how there is an element of poetry that implies subversity. That really inspired me.

FC: Your line has the feel of the 90s but also now, how do you summarize the aesthetics?

ND: I researched a lot of magazines in the 90s because I liked the clothes, aesthetics, and even the way the pictures were taken at the time. There is something raw and soulful that I want to bring back. So, I really refer to the 90s in detail, etc. But then everything mixed with the curtain and my personal tastes were also influenced by what we see now, society, current reality.

There is a mixture of severity and duality that I play a lot, and it is clear how I will summarize the aesthetics.

FC: Who are your customers?

ND: A confident woman who is not afraid to look different and to break prejudices about beautiful ‘clothes’.

FC: What is the foundation of your company?

ND: Good quality material, honest product, and propose a slightly different way to dress / unite clothes.

FC: Which was the first time you designed it and how did it happen?

ND: The first thing I designed, which I am proud of is the mini dress made of a three-layered jersey and brown and black organza. I like the translucent layer’s effect, creating new shapes just by overlapping.

FC: Tell me about the production process and materiality …

ND: In terms of making collections, I always start by hanging on a mannequin which we then develop with each toile while doing a lot of equipment. Usually, because many pieces are attached and asymmetrical, they are complicated to be simplified into commercial products and we do a lot of work now.

I like to mix fabrics like stretch georgette, with super fine jersey and now with some special fabrics too. Again, it’s all about contrasting and giving multi-dimensionality clothing.

FC: What are the long-term goals for your company?

ND: I will definitely continue to develop and consolidate the aesthetics and quality of the product, and maybe expand a little to footwear.

FC: Where can we buy?

ND: Currently, stocked on Make sense, H Lorenzo, Opening Ceremony, Macondo in Italy.


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