Tag Archives: net-a-porter

Paris Fashion Week Presents International Retailer Sans. Will This Affect Their Offering Come Spring? | Instant News

Paris Fashion Week’s nine-day digital-show experience for Spring 2021 finished last week, albeit in a different way. The live presentation accounts for about fifty percent of the brand’s disclosed collection. The current Coronavirus pandemic is driving all but local retailers away – and some of them even choose to sit back and watch online.

With common sense that set no travel rules for overseas buyers, they experienced the show virtually. I asked four retail executives: Roopal Patel, Fashion Director, Saks Fifth Avenue, Laure Heriard Debreuil, founder of The Webster, Lisa Aiken, Moda Operandi’s Buying and Fashion Director, and Libby Paige, Senior Fashion Market Editor of Net-A-Porter, their opinion . about the seasons in Paris and what their shelves and webpages will save this Spring.

NO BEATS IN PEOPLE All unanimously agree that not seeing and feeling clothes in person, especially in Paris, is a negative thing. Except for Paige, who saw some important agreements for the accounts (CAN SHE NAME AND WHERE?), All retail executives watching shows on line.

“Not being able to see clothes and feel emotions can affect how you feel about a collection,” says Paige admitting missed the mood and mood, including croissants! “As cliches as they may sound, they contribute to our feelings and help tell the story of what direction the industry is interested in.”

On a professional level, Aiken misses instant reactions to shows and products. “I miss human interaction with our brand partners, editors and stylists,” he added.

Debreuil noted the strange feeling of not attending shows and appointments in person. “That is if I skip school!” He and his team pay extra attention to detail. “Not seeing and feeling the style in person is difficult enough; our buying and curating are inspired at these moments by sensory experience,” explains Debreuil. However, although she misses the energy of the hands-on experience and the ‘back to school’ joy of seeing designers and colleagues being given a fashion show, the result is extra time at home with her children.

Patel felt that not seeing the collection in person this time made him grateful for the live shows he has attended over the more than 15 years of his career. “Nothing compares to attending a live show and seeing clothing up close and personal. It’s a unique experience,” he said, adding, “you can view the collection on your computer or cell phone, you can’t capture the magic and creative power of a designer. put into a collection or experience the same level of connection. And if I feel that connection, I know our customers will too. “She hasn’t missed the soaring viral stress experienced in the final collection in March of this year.

One thing that doesn’t change when you experience a show digitally is your favorite show. Paige, Aiken, and Debreuil cite Jonathan Anderson’s ‘Show-On-The-Wall’ for Loewe, whose elaborate invitations include a kit for sticking campaign posters to the wall among their favorites. Other highlight names are Chloe’s digital show format, which mixes live performances and digital experiences to create a street-style vibe, or the Balenciaga model parading through the streets of Paris at night singing along with a version of Corey Hart’s “Sunglasses at Night” song. Marine Serre shows another world film titled Amor Fati, which shows off her new crescent moon motif through a group of would-be followers to the androgynous protagonist.

Salvatore Ferragamo sends VR glasses to his digital show guests, enabling a truly immersive experience that makes viewers feel like they’re indoors. A circular runway covered in a Paco Rabanne silver palette and a digital front row creates an immersive global experience, turning this small, limited event into a fashion moment that goes beyond live presentation.

However there were some unexpected upgrades with designers showing off their collections in digital format, especially for online retailers only. Brands are impressively creative with presentation, producing as much content, awareness and intel as possible, “he says of digital storytelling.” This is exactly how Moda’s clients shop, so it provides a good context for the online experience. ”

Paige agrees. “This has allowed us to really see brands that are creative and able to stand out over the years,” he said, adding, “It gives us the clarity to look at the product digitally and how it will work with our online shopper.”


Most retailers agree that once Spring 2021 hits the sales floor or website, things haven’t returned to ‘normal’. “I think this shift will shape the way we approach clothing for a long time,” said Paige. She has noticed themes of escape and excitement in reality-based collections and outfits such as sumptuous spring sweater sets, casual stitching, and denims like Balenciaga and Valentino x Levi’s.

“With increasing time spent at home, our customers are looking for versatile, yet functional clothing that embraces a new relaxed attitude and smart-casual wear,” says Paige.

Aiken said that Moda Operandi women like to dress for special occasions, but she said, “Obviously, for 2020, a lot has been postponed.” That still doesn’t rule out outdoor gatherings, and Aiken observes that Spring 2021 has a feminine side with A-line skirts, dainty tops, and female-like shoes all in soft pastels. If she spends more time at home, “Client Moda likes to get dressed in the morning.” Emphasizing comfort while maintaining femininity and individuality, their customers have swapped blazers for oversized cardigans.

“The new hero part is the cardigan, he just can’t get enough of it,” cites the Khaite cardigan and bralette, the Jacquemus shrink cardigan or the traditional styles from the Brock Collection as best-sellers.

Debreuil says her clients are aiming for luxurious casual wear and athletic aesthetics. Her clients are attracted to pretty comfortable dresses, bra tops, and glam sportswear. A strong spring trend is cut details, lace details, bold prints, and cotton candy colors. “We are optimistic about the idea of ​​dressing” back to normal. “However, we believe in the new normal,” noting their purchases focused on the styles and looks that have stood out this season. “We have learned a lot about our clients this fall and how they approach their current shopping, beneficial when writing orders this season, he added,” They buy investments and basic goods of good value and quality. “SADAR’s E-comm department, he has seen clients take a greater interest in sustainability as well.

Debreuil sees the industry today as half full. “The positive outcome for 2020 is seeing our industry take steps to implement and create change in areas such as racial equality, bodily positivity, sustainability and politics.”

The season had unexpected results for Patel. “Happily, we were surprised to see that Spring 2021 was not as relaxed as we had thought,” she said, noting there was still plenty of room for what she dubs, “the laid-back woman.” For Saks, this means luxurious and versatile casual wear with a raised kaftan, tunic, robe and pajama outfit. Breezy dresses in a variety of colors, casual stitching focused on oversized blazers, bra tops, bike shorts, denim, knits, and lace emerged as the main trends for tony retailers. Of course, there’s also the Zoom effect, which calls for a bright top, bold earrings, and a bold lip color as a focal point.

Apart from keeping track of seasonal trends, Saks is focused on meeting customer needs during an unprecedented time through additional services. Saks by Appointment allows customers to book a personal time slot before or after the store opens to shop or try Virtual Shopping to allow them to visit locations such as Saks Boston for a ‘style advisor’ video conference appointment. Saks at Home reverses the scenario and sends style experts to its clients’ homes with selected merchandise to consult on wardrobe cleaning style sessions. Finally, Try Before You Buy, an invitation-only service that sends selected items to clients’ homes. Customers are charged for what they store, and Saks takes the remaining stock.


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Add to Basket: Fashion E-Commerce During the COVID-19 Period | Instant News

When the world suddenly stops, so does sales in brick and mortar stores everywhere. Shutters descend in front of shops while mall doors are locked indefinitely; beloved space that forms the most integral part of our shopping culture in the Middle East. This is the inevitable truth that the mall is our playground; The monolith was built as an air-conditioned escape from the often extreme heat, and small towns – with enormous love letters – headed for luxury and style.

For tourists and residents, Dubai in particular has become synonymous with shopping, with The Dubai Mall registering 84 million visitors in 2019 alone. The Middle East is one of the last strongholds of the dominant physical shopping experience; business models that have so far worked for brands, franchisees and retail space developers, as well as our most consumers.

But when a disaster COVID-19 forcing it to stop steadfastly, how do luxury brands, which have historically evolved from the experience of IRL and by-promise-only store sales, enter the bustling crowd in the e-commerce market? Especially because – according to Chalhoub Group research – 70 percent of women like to shop ‘with the clans’ with their group of friends?

Social alignment certainly dampens that, but does that mean that the habits of our consumers in the Middle East will change permanently? In addition, how will the relatively late e-tail pivoting of the region impact the mall business that has been hit, and maybe even continue to do so?

In the past month, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Bvlgari and Tory Burch join the e-comm competition in the Middle East; a move that, although unavoidable, has undoubtedly been accelerated by the onset of Coronavirus when brands try to make up for lost sales. It’s only a matter of time before more prisons follow suit, and the good news is that the data shows that the appetite for buying luxury goods – even though online for a while – is still alive, good and not letting COVID-19 beat it as much as you were initially afraid of.

Working from home has created a real effect, with luxury e-tailers, Moda Operandi noted an 85 percent jump in the search for high-end sports pants in the immediate month after March 9; the week that COVID-19 was officially declared a pandemic. However, it also saw a 40 percent increase in buyers who wanted to buy investments Net-a-Porter and Matches Fashion saw an increase in sales of jewelry, watches and shoes.

But, in the end, what does this consumer behavior unite with the retail evolution of our mall? In Europe and the United States, even pre-Covid, brick-and-mortar retails have suffered for years, but because the mall culture here is so intertwined in the tapestry of how we live, it’s hard to imagine it going the same way. Many have reopened, and are as busy – if not more – than before. What’s important to remember is that the mall here offers more than retail; they form part of our community – our way of life. Evolution is natural, so this is e-commerce just to strengthen the treasure experience that we care about.

All images belong to Jason Llyod Evans

From the 2020 Summer Edition of Harper’s Bazaar Arabia


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London Fashion Label 16Arlington Brings Luxury, Luxury And Fetish Attention With Their Latest Collections | Instant News

Marco Capaldo and Kikka Cavenati are the duos behind the London-based fashion label, 16Arlington.

Founded in 2017, their brand exudes glamor, real charm. I mean the glamorous type of Jean Harlow that you associate with Hollywood young stars, but there is a cool London.

There are feathers, there are sequins, silk, leather, and crystals. What more do you want? And this killer silhouette adorns including hugging figures for mini halterneck and one shoulder midis. This is the best maximalism.

Brought to date, there are more important, pay closer attention and there is a collective harmony is disharmony – femininity and masculinity (see special blazers), minimalist and maximum, made sexiness and style without effort. Also not PG, besides that there is also a bit of mixed fetish. Hot.

And the appeal is real, so much so that they get their own Hollywooder, Lena Dunham to walk on their 2020 Spring / Summer catwalks at London Fashion Week (that was Dunham’s debut appearance as a runway model). Also seen they pocketed prominent stockists from Bergdorf Goodman and Kirna Zabete to Selfridges, Moda Operandi, Luisa through Rome and Lane Crawford all eager to follow their alluring lines. So I guess what needs to be done is to add a red carpet.

Felicity Carter: What was your first memory of fashion or style?

We always talk about how we are both very fashion conscious thanks to our mother.

Even though none of them work directly in fashion, they always have a high interest and interest in clothing. We often find ourselves referring to old photo albums and asking them to dig up old pieces that we found in them.

Kikka: My mother used to be a model in her 20s and was often paid for clothes. He will choose unusual special pieces that he normally doesn’t buy so I remember playing with these pieces often. Growing up, I always wanted him to have high heels, but he always liked to sew and very masculine footwear, so I would arrange these beautiful dresses with male lace and big blazer. That real contrast is something that I still applied when designing.

FC: How, when, why did you enter the industry?

We both studied women’s clothing at the University where we met. I think that is the first real formal introduction to this industry. After the collection of our graduates, we built some beautiful relationships with stylists, we both did internships for different design houses but really felt the urge to work together something together that is when we started working at 16Arlington.

Through our stylist being introduced to Lauren Santo Domingo, he put on one of our works which made Moda one of our first stockists.

FC: How do you summarize aesthetics?

Marco and I have real love and appreciation for all the beautiful things. I think that is the starting point of our true aesthetic is to create something beautiful and empowering. 16Arlington is a balance of two extremes, masculinity versus femininity, minimalism versus maximalism, a combination of our British / Italian heritage that creates this beautiful alignment when put in a container of excessive glamorous sexy Italian glamor and a relaxed and cool London and a casual touch of amulets.

FC: What is luxury for you?

For us, luxury is something that is formed in an object of desire. Something that makes your heart beat fast and makes you stop, observe, admire, and enjoy its beauty.

FC: Who are your customers?

We have never identified our customers with any limitations. We do not place age groups or jobs with our clients. For us, she is a woman who uses clothes to strengthen the beauty that is already there. We are truly fortunate to be able to work with a variety of inspirational women since starting a brand that we feel represents our customers. They are all very different and unique but all have something in common so they change the world in a positive way, making it a far more beautiful place.

FC: What do you each bring to the brand?

At the beginning of the trip I thought that we both bought something quite individually aesthetically for each collection but after working with each other and now in our fifth season our aesthetics have really been synchronized and worked in parallel which we don’t need to pay attention to who brings ideas or details specific to the table. I think the real thing that still exists is the eyes of men and women, Kikka is well aware of how women feel in the clothes we make. Marco has a tendency to push the thigh cleavage a little too high.

FC: What is the foundation of your company?

Being a young brand, we have always been very involved in every aspect of the company from the start, which made us learn a lot because the reality of brand building is that there is far more to it than just designing a collection every season. We always take a very direct approach and are still involved in every small aspect of the brand which certainly has weaknesses but also allows us to be very aware of how the brand works and develops. This combined with a very small dedicated team allowed us to get to this point. One of our greatest blessings is to think of one another to continually form rational decisions based on two opinions rather than one and that something both of which is very present both in business, everyday running the brand, and finally the collection itself.

FC: Which was the first time you designed it and how did it happen?

That’s a very difficult question, we made this fur coat very early and it was really about playing with the basic proportions of the coat. We created a large cocoon like this shaped coat to make you look like a pin falling into a fur ball. Another truly impressive creation is the performance we created for Jourdan Dunn and Edie Campbell for the 2018 British fashion award. These two performances are very different but truly represent extreme balance. Jourdan was wearing a strapless transparent lace sequin dress adorned with feathers that had a three-meter long train and Edie was wearing a suit that was completely polished in a limping icy blue with an oversized masculine satin collar.

FC: What’s on your mood board right now?

Nowadays it is quite difficult to channel creative inspiration when surrounded by such sadness but there are times where inspiration kicks in and creates pauses and also acts as a small form of escape. The atmosphere and ideas change quite quickly now and the adjustment from working under extreme pressure and tight deadlines to having more time to develop is something that you think will only benefit the process but in reality adjustments and uncertainties occupy many things. time.

FC: Tell me about the process from sketch to production …

The process from sketch to production is very interesting because each garment is made in a different way. Sometimes there is a very clear visual idea that we detail very deeply in sketches on paper and at other times it is something that comes alive attached to the body. Sometimes something made in a certain direction changes into something when the force inspires to go in a new direction. The process of developing a collection really is something that changes until the morning of the show. After the collection is displayed, it will be sold and seen by our stockists. We often develop exclusive works with our buyers and from our sales campaigns we really begin to understand how collections will be translated commercially. After the sale, we really spent a lot of time aligning clothes in production. Here we tweak the waist circumference bottom keyhole hemlines etc. Many things work well editorially or in show format when you create fantasy but don’t have to be translated into the real world. It is important to us that we keep our clothes as close to the dream as possible, but to make sure women can feel and feel great about wearing them.

FC: How would you like to see your label develop?

We are very fortunate to work with extraordinary stockists around the world and we look forward to continuing to develop our distribution in a very organic way. For us the goal is never to redistribute the collection, but to make it very special and available in a very beautiful space. We want to continue to build long-standing relationships with all our retail partners. We recently launched an exclusive bag collection with Net-a-Porter and we hope to explore more categories in the future as the brand develops into what we hope will become global.

Buy labels on their labels website and in leading stores globally.


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