Tag Archives: one column

Shaina Mote Redefines “Continuous Mode” —Start by Avoiding Terms Altogether | Instant News

Shaina Mote grew up with a mother who saved a horse and a father who saved a tree. As an arborist, or “tree surgeon,” his father’s job was to dig up, replant, and protect them from destruction; at one point, he stopped a developer from cutting down a 400 ton oak tree, which appears to be the largest tree on the planet.

Respect for the earth – and an understanding of how long things can last if cared for properly – are naturally embedded in Mote’s work as a designer. He launched the line from the quiet, no-frills essentials of 2011, showcasing the minimalist fashion movement and enduring values ​​such as timelessness, simplicity, and longevity before it goes trendy. High school work at a luxury consignment shop has introduced him to the timeless works of Prada, Donna Karan, and Jil Sander; Then, a position at a fast fashion company offers the opposite picture: constant novelty, disposable, cheap materials.

Mote has spent the last 10 years developing its label with a vision of clothing that is trend-resistant and discreet to keep for decades. The collection stood alongside The Row and Yohji Yamamoto at Barneys and Totokaelo before both shops closed, and its calm aesthetic, neutral tone, and subtle details made Mote a cult following in Japan. With each season, more retailers come calling, and in 2019, business is booming. But Mote and his small team struggled behind the scenes; relentless speed and the demand for more collections, more styles and more exclusives became untenable – a feeling familiar to many independent designer.

“Over the last two years, I’ve felt a little pushed by the industry,” admits Mote. “I design 100 collections three times a year, and maybe half of them will be produced. With how fast the cycle is, I don’t have time to think about my options, and I feel like I’m moving away from my core values. When I entered 10 years in business, I had a moment where I said, what am I doing here? What is my goal? What do I add to society, and how can I do my job better? “

The answer is to hit the pause button – he hasn’t shown any new collections since February 2020—And doubling down continuity (although the word doesn’t actually appear anywhere on the site, not even on “ApproachA page detailing how the clothes were made). Mote prioritized organic materials and trend-resistant design from the start, the same credentials that many of his peers might call “sustainable luxury,” but he realizes that doesn’t go far enough. He has no way of knowing the entire journey of his clothes or fabrics, nor is he able to quantify his carbon emissions, and although he does provide his manufacturers with a strict code of conduct, he cannot see how people or animals are actually treated. “I can’t honestly say that I know this is sustainable or ethical,” said Mote. So he found someone who could: Kristine Kim, a value chain specialist Mote got to know through a friend. He hired him to dig into his supply chain, highlight blind spots, and encourage his factories to find out more.


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Mona M. Ali Making Changes in the Scandinavian Fashion Community | Instant News

What is Fiiri’s mission?
With Fiiri, the only thing I try to do is show people of color, people who have been ignored and invisible, and display all different faces, not just plain blonde, blue eyes. [ones]. We’re trying to break those stereotypes and feature all the amazing people we have in Scandinavia.

What was the tipping point that led to Fiiri’s establishment?

When I come back in 2019 [after a decade in London], I just feel a lot of the same. I hoped to wait at least a year or two before I started the agency, but came back and couldn’t even get a job, with my experience and degree I was in shock. That’s just crazy for me. I was like, these are people who don’t see us. People don’t listen to us. We couldn’t get the room we deserved. I just want to find all the POC creatives and everyone who works in fashion, including models, to have this environment, a safe space to create and be who you want to be.

Is Fiiri a political platform as well as a creative platform?

For me, yes. Fiiri must be sorry. We talk about difficult things, we try to solve problems, and obviously it gets political. We demand change, and we create a safe space for our creatives to be able to voice the concerns and [discover] how can we move ahead of them, and how we can talk about these things in a kind and positive way, and really see what real change looks like. It must start with us; we just do the things we are supposed to do and people follow. It’s very interesting to see it.

What are you looking for in a model or talent?

The biggest thing for me is personality. When I look at their photos, I somehow see that there is something extra about them, and it’s like a fire inside of them that I see.

Why did agencies grow to include talent outside of modeling?

As we know, the problem does not stop at representation. If you want to be a very diverse person, it is not enough to just have a Black model or an Indian model and have no other people [on set] who looks like you. Not like that; You really need to think beyond that. So it’s always the idea, [to get] behind the two of them [models and] talent, because if you want to be a very diverse person, you have to have both.

Mona M. Ali, left, on Rodebjer

Photographed by Beata Cervin

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.


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Meet The Designer Duo Who Turned Baroque Painting Into Fashion-Forward Jeans | Instant News

After enlisting the help of a digital printing company in Thailand to transfer images to straight cut jeans, designers quickly started gaining a simple but loyal following on Instagram. “We are online with the first 20 prototypes we have,” said Boss. “It’s not like we have lots of pants sitting at home waiting for customers, it’s more of a case to try them on and see what people think of them. We were very surprised by his reaction. “Since then, the couple has continued to distribute their work only through direct messaging, a sales model that suits them.” I think Instagram gives you so many opportunities that we didn’t realize before we started branding, “said Hartmann. also great for us, because through these direct messages you end up having very close contact with your customers, which is actually pretty cool. “

So what’s next for Ebony Tylah? “After all this feedback and seeing people getting into it, and moving away from the mysterious atmosphere we were trying to create, we wanted to focus more on working with some contemporary artists on limited edition works,” Boss said. Pay attention to this (carefully printed) space.


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“What a Surprise is Their Self-Expression and Individuality, That’s a Very High Level” —Meet the Finalists of the Fashion Festival d’Hyères | Instant News

The 36th edition of the Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography, and Fashion Accessories is underway despite social distancing, with finalists in each of the three categories announced tonight at a small ceremony at Villa Noailles.

As president of the Fashion jury, Louise Trotter was personally present to applaud the 10 people
designer, selected from 185 applicants. “What’s really interesting is how diverse they are,” said Trotter, Lacostecreative director, who works with female and male team heads to narrow the field. “Everyone is unique. The depth of research really surprised me – their work was very rich, and they were all strong in their interests, abilities, and approach to design, but what struck me was their self-expression and individuality. The level is very high, “he said. “I hope my jury can help create a community with and around them.”

First-time jury president Dominique Issermann, who headed the Photography prize,
wrote by email that this year’s edition of the festival is an important experience for young creatives
who are starving for the community amidst the ongoing lockdown. “Tricky times can stimulate creativity, but the frustration comes from not being able to share it – and, oddly enough, despite that gigantic scene on social media,” he wrote. Asked what her actions would be from today, Issermann replied: “Beauty, the kind that mysteriously nests in the heart and captures you everywhere from galleries to street corners, in whatever form, does it whether it’s a 20 x 25 vintage view camera. or iPhone. “

Contacted by telephone in Lisbon, Christian Louboutin also said it as the head of Accessories
As a reward, he attempted to gather five eclectic panelists who “understand style and fashion as entertainment.” The designer praised the level 80 submissions for the Accessories 2021 award. Before today’s deliberation, he had already topped that figure by half.

“It’s very interesting to see what people are interested in early in their careers,” he said.
“Things have really changed. You can see that young designers care a lot
environmentally friendly; there is a lot of heart, research, and intelligence on this issue. Recycle
and everything “second life” is something I’ve worked on before, but if it is
from today I will be much more excited about it, I will become the King of Recycling. “

Even so, living in serious times doesn’t mean fashion has to be an obstacle. “While
inconspicuous designs, I am pleased to say that they are neither minimalistic nor pretentious. We are at the intersection of art, craft and technique, ”he observes. “The only thing is that it’s always a little difficult for me to judge people. It’s hard to turn people down. I don’t like doing that. “

The finalists for the Fashion competition are:

Arttu Afeldt, Finnish Men’s Clothing

Mengche Chiang, Taiwanese Men’s Clothing

Venia Elonsalo, Finnish Women’s Clothing

Sofia Ilmonen, Finnish Women’s Clothing

Laima Lurca, Latvian Women’s Clothing

Ifeanyi Okwadi, British Men’s Clothing

Rukpong Raimaturapong, Frech Menswear

Adeline Rappaz, Swiss Women’s Clothing

Elina Silina, Latvian Women’s Clothing

Mateo Velasquez, Colombian Men’s Clothing

The 36th International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Fashion Accessories will take place
place at Hyères from 14-17 October 2021.


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Best Men’s Jewelry in Today’s Fashion | Instant News

Johnny Nelson came to jewelry back when he was a punk rapper known as Johnny Matchsticks, a nickname he got by stabbing a match into his pierced ears before the show. When she wanted to upgrade to matchstick earrings made of gold, she couldn’t find them – so she decided to figure out how to make them herself.

After finding a mentor in New York City’s diamond district and learning how to cast and cast precious metals, Nelson introduced punk and political design to his new line: razor rings, All Power Fist buttons, and portraits of civil rights heroes. pendants, pieces of which are informed by his experiences in underground music and as a victim of police brutality. “I know that I want to use my platform to spread awareness of the injustices we face, but I want to do it through a strong statement like a four finger ring,” he said.

When the Black Lives Matter protests erupted last spring, orders for Nelson’s job were high, so he spent his days cycling between his Brooklyn studios, protests, and the diamond district, while producing items that people like that. from Colin Kaepernick. “I realized that people needed this,” he said. “The guys who will be fighting on the front lines want their Malcolm X ring to give them an extra boost.” It was a period of great emotional pain for Nelson, but also awakened a new sense of purpose: “The work I do is inspire others to fight their struggles. To fight we fight.”

Jean Prounis started making jewelry after attending an ancient goldsmithing class in college.

Photo by Kenyon Anderson


Ancient Form, Modern Heritage

When you first retrieve the Prounist a pinky ring or bracelet, you might think you are handling a pure ancient treasure. The high-rusty gold designer Jean Prounis used has a deep and subtle luster, which is meant to evoke the tone of the jewelery found in the Greco-Roman gallery at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The shape, too, seemed to be refined from generation to generation, and the stones seemed utterly elemental – Jean preferred coarse rocks that emphasized personality over perfection.

Jean’s curatorial approach is informed by her family’s Greek heritage and her grandfather’s extensive library of ancient Greek art, architecture and antiques. “When I was young, he would show me his books,” he said. “Whether I listened or not, I’m not sure, but it sure came out when I started making jewelry.” A finely woven chain, for example, is secured with clasps that echo the Mycenaean era pin design, and the gold-grained pyramidal pillar takes its inspiration from second-century Roman earrings found in Cyprus.


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