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Shaina Mote Redefines “Continuous Mode” —Start by Avoiding Terms Altogether | Instant News

Shaina Mote grew up with a mother who saved a horse and a father who saved a tree. As an arborist, or “tree surgeon,” his father’s job was to dig up, replant, and protect them from destruction; at one point, he stopped a developer from cutting down a 400 ton oak tree, which appears to be the largest tree on the planet.

Respect for the earth – and an understanding of how long things can last if cared for properly – are naturally embedded in Mote’s work as a designer. He launched the line from the quiet, no-frills essentials of 2011, showcasing the minimalist fashion movement and enduring values ​​such as timelessness, simplicity, and longevity before it goes trendy. High school work at a luxury consignment shop has introduced him to the timeless works of Prada, Donna Karan, and Jil Sander; Then, a position at a fast fashion company offers the opposite picture: constant novelty, disposable, cheap materials.

Mote has spent the last 10 years developing its label with a vision of clothing that is trend-resistant and discreet to keep for decades. The collection stood alongside The Row and Yohji Yamamoto at Barneys and Totokaelo before both shops closed, and its calm aesthetic, neutral tone, and subtle details made Mote a cult following in Japan. With each season, more retailers come calling, and in 2019, business is booming. But Mote and his small team struggled behind the scenes; relentless speed and the demand for more collections, more styles and more exclusives became untenable – a feeling familiar to many independent designer.

“Over the last two years, I’ve felt a little pushed by the industry,” admits Mote. “I design 100 collections three times a year, and maybe half of them will be produced. With how fast the cycle is, I don’t have time to think about my options, and I feel like I’m moving away from my core values. When I entered 10 years in business, I had a moment where I said, what am I doing here? What is my goal? What do I add to society, and how can I do my job better? “

The answer is to hit the pause button – he hasn’t shown any new collections since February 2020—And doubling down continuity (although the word doesn’t actually appear anywhere on the site, not even on “ApproachA page detailing how the clothes were made). Mote prioritized organic materials and trend-resistant design from the start, the same credentials that many of his peers might call “sustainable luxury,” but he realizes that doesn’t go far enough. He has no way of knowing the entire journey of his clothes or fabrics, nor is he able to quantify his carbon emissions, and although he does provide his manufacturers with a strict code of conduct, he cannot see how people or animals are actually treated. “I can’t honestly say that I know this is sustainable or ethical,” said Mote. So he found someone who could: Kristine Kim, a value chain specialist Mote got to know through a friend. He hired him to dig into his supply chain, highlight blind spots, and encourage his factories to find out more.


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Introducing Callas Milano – Luxury Brand Made In Italy With Sustainable Bona Fides | Instant News

“The biggest problem in our industry is overproduction,” said Schlottman Mode. “Our main goal is to adapt the development to true fashion consumption.” By selling directly to consumers and through small boutiques that really know their customers, he and Panzeri will override a sales cycle that forces independent brands to push up prices and ship new merchandise at ever-increasing intervals. This is the main topic in Dries Van Noten Forum letter and the Business of Fashion’s Rewiring Fashion initiative last spring. That Callas Milano is implementing this innovation while a large part of the industry continues to operate as it did a year ago illustrates how difficult it is to create change. But a little more here. The company will use the sales data to drive future collection; “It’s not a crowd-sourced fashion,” explains Schlottman, but relying on data will help eliminate excess and waste.

The Callas Milano hero cut is an organic cotton trench topped off with a traditional belt, as well as a removable gold chain and silk twill scarf illustrated with Milan landmarks including the Duomo and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Every season – or module – Callas Milano will release another printed souvenir scarf. However, it’s poplin blouses and pliable flare crepe pants that tend to be real collectibles; they are just as beautiful for such an understated price.

But why launch a brand during a pandemic? “I really love fashion, but like so many others, I believe it is time to reset an industry that doesn’t appreciate enough the work that goes into designing and making beautiful clothes,” said Schlottman. “Soon we want to go shopping again but without missing the convenience of e-commerce. That’s why Marco and I believe in the potential of this hybrid business model in which stores, e-commerce and manufacturing thrive together and build on each other. And then there’s also the excitement of starting something new when we have nothing to lose. It can only get better from here. “

Shopping collection as callasmilano.com.


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You Don’t Trip: Mushrooms and Mushrooms Are Taking Over Mode | Instant News

There is a lot more to the story than just aesthetics. The health, self-care, and climate change benefits of mushrooms are particularly relevant: Health obsessive buying ingredients containing reishi skin care products to calm inflammation, stir chaga into coffee to boost immunity, and full tripped to treat anxiety and depression. Good literally put on our mushroom obsession after Hermès and Stella McCartney “skin” mushroom products–Billed as a low-impact alternative to animal hides – is becoming mainstream. (Until then, you might consider being on the waiting list for Eden Power Corp. bucket hat, made of one – enormous! —Mammadou mushroom.)

Much of our interest in mushrooms can be attributed to a desire to reconnect with the outside world, a natural reaction after our years of lockdown. But in my opinion, the story isn’t mushrooms at all – it’s mycelium. Stay with me here: The mycelium is the underground network of thread-like branches that grow under fungi and mushrooms, connecting every living plant and tree and facilitating the exchange of nutrients, destroying decaying matter, regenerating the earth, and even absorb carbon. It is now understood that the mycelium helps plants and trees “communicate” and support each other; in a documentary Fantastic Mushrooms, the mycelium is aptly described as the natural internet, or “wide web of wood”. The area is the same: For every step we take, there are roughly 300 miles of mycelium stretching beneath the surface.

The new bustier and leggings from Stella McCartney are made with Mylo, a mycelium-based skin alternative.Photo: Courtesy of Stella McCartney

The mycelium has been used for clean up oil spills and can even be new, biodegradable construction material. However, it’s the more poetic mycelium stories of harmony, connection, and balance that can literally change the way we live on earth – and that’s what designers love the most. “[It’s an idea that] really touched me, “said Iris van Herpen in January, “Because in my opinion last year was, for me, and I think all of us, [one] isolation and separation. And of course it’s wonderful to see nature and how nature is connected in very similar ways [to] how we communicate. “

Inspired by the book Merlin Sheldrake A Bonded Life: How Fungi Made Our WorldThe Van Herpen, 2021 spring couture collection is an aswirl with hypha-like embellishments and a more pronounced nod to mushrooms, like a fanned dress reminiscent of a chanterelle. His couturier partner Rahul Mishra presented her own, more literal mushroom: Her Spring 2021 lineup featured a mini dress consisting entirely of hand-embroidered mushrooms and layered flowing gowns to mimic a shelf of mushrooms growing from a tree. They are not funny; it’s an incredibly intricate and handcrafted piece of art that most of us will never see or wear IRL on. On the contrary, Mishra hopes they will inspire us to rethink our relationship with the outside world and let nature guide our decisions. “The fungus creates rebirth in its true sense,” he said. “They are masterpieces of engineering on their own.”


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Giorgio Armani on The Future of Fashion – And Why He Doesn’t Slow Down | Instant News

Armani’s argument is basically that when things get crazy, the safe but best designs can be revolutionary – and empower a woman to do revolutionary things like, say, bring down the British monarchy. When Meghan Markle needed to prepare for battle with the House of Windsor, she was choose black Armani silk dress with white lotus flower motif.

“My job has one single purpose: give women the inner strength that comes with being comfortable, who they are with and what they are wearing,” Mr. Armani, who approved the dress earlier, told me as I turned back after the Oprah interview. “I’m flattered that one of my dresses was chosen for such an important event – it means my work really speaks.”

But is Mr Armani willing to use all his enormous influence to repair what he considers a broken industry – even if that means scaling down his own massive operations? He told me that when I visited his sprawling headquarters, his COVID-free hotel, his commercial and couture showrooms, and the bustling atelier with busy tailors, he was in a meeting directing his team to drastically reduce the number of summer appearances for all markets around the world. .

“The first thing I said was ‘Collections need to be reduced by almost a third.’ “Sixty percent of global fashion production, he says, end up unsold and” dumped “onto the black market or outlets.” I don’t want to work for an outlet! ”

After complaining for years that his warnings were being ignored, Armani insisted that now, after COVID, it was different – and that some of the other big players in the industry were willing to follow in his footsteps. “Now they are taking a step back,” he told me. “I won’t name names, but some are big [label] which exploded in the market. Now starting to say, No – we can’t do everything, because people don’t buy. “

Mr. Armani has changed modes before. After he and Galeotti started the company in 1975 with the initial money raised from selling their Volkswagen Beetle, they provided a stylistic correction to the excesses of the era. They captured the rise of feminism with the elegant, draped tailoring that made Mr Armani a maker of empowered working women and the more fashionable modern men, symbolized by the Armani dress of Richard Gere in the 1980s. American Gigolo. Armani’s gray and beige fabrics introduced a whole palette of muted colors to the culture, and for nearly half a century of work he has painted the world with them.

Mr Armani, not shy, told me that his innovation was a “big change,” but it was also “an easy game because the style was almost ridiculous at the time.” In fact, his innovations are often reactionary. Her response to 90s supermodels singing along to the jukebox that exploded in George Michael’s videos? Androgynous and anonymous model. Whenever things get too much, Armani is a person who is anti-too much. Once again, he said, the world had returned to him.

What COVID is showing, he told me, is that people can dress well with a little, that there is no need to go shopping every day. Fashion, he said, must return to its original function, which is to help people look and live better. Fashion is what people wear, he says, not spectacle.

Armani in 1967, when he designed menswear for Nino Cerruti. By 1980, the label itself would become known for its modern, more fashionable men’s and working women’s clothing.Photo: Courtesy of Giorgio Armani


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Best Instagram Fashion of the Week: Dua Lipa, Lizzo, Slow Thai and More | Instant News

The past week, Dua Lipa has had many reasons to be happy. It’s been 12 months since the pop star was released Future Nostalgia, which received a Grammy Award for Best Pop Album. To celebrate, his team surprised him with an album cover cake, while Lipa wore “sexy heartAnd a thick cardigan. Accessories here? Balloons, of course.

Another musician who enjoyed his light was Lizzo. She wore a casual look that looked like home – a sports bra and swishy pants – and added a Balenciaga branded windbreaker for the designer finish. Tracee Ellis Ross is also sunbathing. The actress is posing outside before her appearance The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon, wearing a red Sterling Ruby suit with Northface x Gucci boots and his own “Old Céline” earrings. Because of the pandemic, Ross’s stylist Karla Welch “threw” the gaze at the gate. Anything for display.

Away in London is the Slow Thai rapper. He is posing on a dirt bike in a ready-to-ride sports outfit with a bucket hat. Her ice blue sneakers are made by fellow rappers Skepta, specifically Nike Air Max Tailwind V Skepta.

Finally, Bella Hadid and fellow model Alton Mason attended the Hugo Boss virtual fashion show, which marked the label’s collaboration with Russell Athletic. The look was a lot of fun: Mason opted for a fabulous outerwear made of leather and fur, while Hadid wore a Y2K complete with an off-the-shoulder top and slung shorts. Hadid captioned the image with: “We’re literally doing this 24/7 365 @altonmason.” Talk about a model’s life!

Here, check out the best Instagram fashions of the week.


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