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Shaina Mote Redefines “Continuous Mode” —Start by Avoiding Terms Altogether | Instant News

Shaina Mote grew up with a mother who saved a horse and a father who saved a tree. As an arborist, or “tree surgeon,” his father’s job was to dig up, replant, and protect them from destruction; at one point, he stopped a developer from cutting down a 400 ton oak tree, which appears to be the largest tree on the planet.

Respect for the earth – and an understanding of how long things can last if cared for properly – are naturally embedded in Mote’s work as a designer. He launched the line from the quiet, no-frills essentials of 2011, showcasing the minimalist fashion movement and enduring values ​​such as timelessness, simplicity, and longevity before it goes trendy. High school work at a luxury consignment shop has introduced him to the timeless works of Prada, Donna Karan, and Jil Sander; Then, a position at a fast fashion company offers the opposite picture: constant novelty, disposable, cheap materials.

Mote has spent the last 10 years developing its label with a vision of clothing that is trend-resistant and discreet to keep for decades. The collection stood alongside The Row and Yohji Yamamoto at Barneys and Totokaelo before both shops closed, and its calm aesthetic, neutral tone, and subtle details made Mote a cult following in Japan. With each season, more retailers come calling, and in 2019, business is booming. But Mote and his small team struggled behind the scenes; relentless speed and the demand for more collections, more styles and more exclusives became untenable – a feeling familiar to many independent designer.

“Over the last two years, I’ve felt a little pushed by the industry,” admits Mote. “I design 100 collections three times a year, and maybe half of them will be produced. With how fast the cycle is, I don’t have time to think about my options, and I feel like I’m moving away from my core values. When I entered 10 years in business, I had a moment where I said, what am I doing here? What is my goal? What do I add to society, and how can I do my job better? “

The answer is to hit the pause button – he hasn’t shown any new collections since February 2020—And doubling down continuity (although the word doesn’t actually appear anywhere on the site, not even on “ApproachA page detailing how the clothes were made). Mote prioritized organic materials and trend-resistant design from the start, the same credentials that many of his peers might call “sustainable luxury,” but he realizes that doesn’t go far enough. He has no way of knowing the entire journey of his clothes or fabrics, nor is he able to quantify his carbon emissions, and although he does provide his manufacturers with a strict code of conduct, he cannot see how people or animals are actually treated. “I can’t honestly say that I know this is sustainable or ethical,” said Mote. So he found someone who could: Kristine Kim, a value chain specialist Mote got to know through a friend. He hired him to dig into his supply chain, highlight blind spots, and encourage his factories to find out more.


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Mona M. Ali Making Changes in the Scandinavian Fashion Community | Instant News

What is Fiiri’s mission?
With Fiiri, the only thing I try to do is show people of color, people who have been ignored and invisible, and display all different faces, not just plain blonde, blue eyes. [ones]. We’re trying to break those stereotypes and feature all the amazing people we have in Scandinavia.

What was the tipping point that led to Fiiri’s establishment?

When I come back in 2019 [after a decade in London], I just feel a lot of the same. I hoped to wait at least a year or two before I started the agency, but came back and couldn’t even get a job, with my experience and degree I was in shock. That’s just crazy for me. I was like, these are people who don’t see us. People don’t listen to us. We couldn’t get the room we deserved. I just want to find all the POC creatives and everyone who works in fashion, including models, to have this environment, a safe space to create and be who you want to be.

Is Fiiri a political platform as well as a creative platform?

For me, yes. Fiiri must be sorry. We talk about difficult things, we try to solve problems, and obviously it gets political. We demand change, and we create a safe space for our creatives to be able to voice the concerns and [discover] how can we move ahead of them, and how we can talk about these things in a kind and positive way, and really see what real change looks like. It must start with us; we just do the things we are supposed to do and people follow. It’s very interesting to see it.

What are you looking for in a model or talent?

The biggest thing for me is personality. When I look at their photos, I somehow see that there is something extra about them, and it’s like a fire inside of them that I see.

Why did agencies grow to include talent outside of modeling?

As we know, the problem does not stop at representation. If you want to be a very diverse person, it is not enough to just have a Black model or an Indian model and have no other people [on set] who looks like you. Not like that; You really need to think beyond that. So it’s always the idea, [to get] behind the two of them [models and] talent, because if you want to be a very diverse person, you have to have both.

Mona M. Ali, left, on Rodebjer

Photographed by Beata Cervin

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.


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Scary Video Games Help Me Overcome My Fears About Reality | Instant News

I’m crouching a dark corner of the room, hidden among stacks of books and old cardboard boxes. I know something dangerous is nearby. My heart was beating fast at the tips of my fingers and there was a repeated thud in my ear. But I have to move, or I’ll never get out of here.

I took the plunge, ran to the other side of the room. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw a hole the size of myself in the floor. I ran for it. My heartbeat accelerated, the thumps grew louder, and when I reached the hole, long gray arms with thin fingers reached out from the next room, gripped my stomach, and pulled me to the dirty bandaged face. patchwork. Everything turned black.

And then, I save my progress, open my jaw, and make myself a cup of tea. I’ll live the rest of my night feeling calm, knowing nothing in the real world will scare me as much as the endless monsters lurking in the dark on my Nintendo Switch screen.

Since I was young, I was drawn to such haunting and disturbing games Little Nightmares, despite a lifelong fear of darkness – I slept with the light on until I was about 12 – and lifelong anxiety. In middle school, evenings at home alone were pure torture if I spent them in the eerie silence of my room. Instead, I would turn on the TV, turn on my Xbox 360, and let the daylight fade unnoticed while I spend hours in the haunting world. Dead space, borrowed from a friend who will be one of my biggest mental health advocates.

This is not fair escape, comfort, or a feeling of control which prompted me to play video games to overcome my fears about reality. In fact, I think it’s closer to some version of exposure therapy, where I’m looking for a game that portrays some really terrifying extreme fear and gives me the opportunity to practice my responses to it. Often times, I return to the real world calmer, more in tune with my breathing, and empowered to control my chronic depression and anxiety.

“What you often do in exposure therapy is observe yourself looking at the world, because most of us, when we feel anxious, only pay attention to the threatening cues in our environment,” Isabel Granic, director of the Games for Emotional & Mental Health Lab at the University. Radboud, tell me. “So if you think about video games, if you just look at the threatening context, you might miss out on the strategic things you could do in-game if you were more relaxed, and your attention span would widen.”

At GEMH Lab, Granic develops and researches video games that use psychological principles to help children combat anxiety and depression. As a professor of developmental psychology and a lover of video games, Granic said she saw her own children attracted to the challenging and often terrifying games, which inspired her to combine the principles of exposure and cognitive behavioral therapy with the mechanics of video games.

So far, he’s been successful Mindlight, in which players wear brainwave sensors that control the amount of light they have to explore the haunted house, and IN, a VR game in which a belt that measures players’ diaphragmatic breathing controls their movement around the underwater world.

However, it’s not just games specifically designed to interact with your brain waves or breathing habits that can help with anxiety. Granic says that when I choose to play scary video games, I train myself for the anxiety I experience in real life, whether I realize it or not.


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How the next generation of fashion resale took shape | Instant News

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For the last six months, the platform used online Thredup, Poshmark and StockX has filed for megawatt IPOs, reaching valuations of $ 1.3 billion, $ 3.8 billion and $ 7.5 billion, respectively. The growing wave of startups looking to step in, are using white label technology, digital passports, and a combination of lease and resale to differentiate themselves.

The tough task is deciphering which offering to stick with. The online resale market is highly fragmented and dynamic, with new players coming in looking for growth based on shifting consumer trends, and established players raising additional funds through external investment or IPO, notes Sarah Willersdorf, head of global luxury at the Boston Consulting Group. Winners and losers will emerge in the next three to five years during which period the used goods sector, currently valued at $ 30-40 billion worldwide, is expected to grow 15-20 percent.

Luxury brands shouldn’t sit aside, says Willersdorf. “Brands should explore options such as selling used goods themselves, developing their own resale platforms, instituting buyback programs, and partnering with existing resale platforms to leverage outside expertise,” he said. Boston Consulting Group research shows that 62 percent of consumers will buy more from fashion brands that partner with second-hand players. “The bottom line for brands is that markets that were previously owned will remain,” said Willersdorf.

Fashion CEOs prefer to participate with some control over their brand representation, said Sarah Smith, a partner at Bain Capital Ventures, which has invested in the resale of the startup Archive. “What’s most surprising to many is that reselling can drive greater customer loyalty for the brand, rather than cannibalizing sales.”

Why aren’t there more luxury brands investing in resale? Andy Ruben, CEO of white label resale platform Trove, which supports resale for sustainability-conscious brands including Patagonia and Eileen Fisher, says this boils down to perceived risk, which is rapidly diminishing. “Luxury brands are good at strategy but they don’t want to be first. Currently, they are watching and studying. In the next few years, we will see the luxury players get it right. “

The emergence of resale that is integrated with the brand

Integration is one option. “Keeping used platforms, brands and retailers hidden has driven inefficiencies on all sides,” said Stephanie Crespin, founder and CEO of Reflaunt, one of many startups. their white label resale technology. Reflaunt’s modulable features include broadcasting resale lists to up to 24 global markets to promote quick sales, offering store credit to customers instead of cash, and digitizing physical purchases for luxury brands that are slower to adopt e-commerce via in-house resales. store. drop-off scheme. It is part of La Maison des Startups LVMH and its clients include Balenciaga and Cos.


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BAFTA 2021: Fashion – Live From the Red Carpet | Instant News

Today, the second night of the British Academy Film Awards – better known as BAFTA—Start, honoring excellence in British and international films over the past year. As one of the last events on the awards season calendar, the ceremony was held over two nights at the Royal Albert Hall in London for the first time in its history, with last night’s technical prizes and more headline awards being presented. out tonight.

In the fashion field, BAFTA is known for its more risk-taking red carpet in keeping with its hometown’s rebellious approach to style. As this year’s ceremony takes place without a live audience, all performances will radiate from a distance – and with some of Hollywood’s most stylish young talents, including Riz Ahmed, Vanessa Kirby, Leslie Odom Jr., and Daniel Kaluuya, ready to gong, when it comes to fashion moments. , You can expect the unexpected.

Check back because the gallery is updated in real time complete with all of your favorite silver screen stars – and be sure to watch it Vogue list of best clothes that night too.


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