INKOM – Learning to sew is a birthright for women in Ariana Long’s family.
Long, a 16 year old Inkom girl who attended Century High School in Pocatello, was taught sewing by her mother, Kristi Bernier-Long, when she was only 7 years old. Bernier-Long, on the other hand, learned from his mother, who also learned from his mother.
The family legacy is in good hands with Long, who was recently told that the red wool coat he designed and created took first place in the state in the annual Make it With Wool contest, sponsored by the Idaho Wool Growers Association.
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The coat – made of 100% Pendleton wool with lining, collar, black belt, clasp front and shaped trim – will now be entered in the American Sheep Industry Association national competition. If it weren’t for the COVID-19 pandemic, Long would have been invited to Denver to participate directly in national competitions.
Long, who won the junior division of the competition, admitted that he was nervous about entering the coat in the contest. This was the first time he had worked with wool and made changes himself, without his mother’s help.
“It means a lot to me personally,” Long said. “This is one of the first outfits I can do myself and be convinced of my talent.”
Over the years, Long has sewn her own pajamas and several dresses, including semi-formal 1950s-style dresses. For the coat design, he modified McCall’s pattern.
“I added a few different personal accessories and styles,” Long said.
Lama previously modeled the coat during the 4H competition at the Eastern Idaho State Fair, where he won a medal in the style review category.
Long is the representative for the eastern 4H district and has been active in 4H and FFA for several years.
“I saw a lot of people showing sheep (in 4H) and I have been exposed to the wool industry through that program,” said Long, who hopes to have a career as a major veterinarian. “I’ve done a lot of learning about the animals featured in 4H and their respective industries.”
Long personally participated in a race featuring a horse and his dog, the German shepherd.
For winning the state contest, he was awarded a full fleece and 10 yards of wool for his future project. He explained that he used thick, hard-to-work wool for his coat, and that it would be easier to work with lighter wool in the future.
He was so desperate to get the coat back from the national appraisal that he ended up wearing it regularly.
Idaho Make it with Wool Director Kim Monk said the contest was meant to promote the quality and versatility of wool and has been around for decades. She looked at photos dating from the 1940’s of entries from Latah County in the Idaho state pageant.
Monk personally won the Idaho contest as a student in the 1980s. He earned a master’s degree in textile design from the University of Idaho.
“Wool as a fiber is very versatile. Wool is a natural fiber; it’s very sustainable,” says Monk.
Monk said he was impressed with all the entries in this year’s contest, including Long’s coat.
“It’s so beautiful. I want it,” he said.
Mia Sharnhost, from Genesee, took second place in the junior division.
There are 230,000 sheep raised in Idaho, and the herd has grown by 5% over the past two years, said Naomi Gordon, executive director of the Idaho Wool Growers Association. Gordon emphasized that wool has antimicrobial properties and is good for human health and the environment.
“Fine wool is one of the finest fabrics you will find in the entire world,” says Gordon.
Gordon says proponents of using natural fibers tend to prefer wool, which he says “has had a bad reputation in the past from people who don’t understand the product.”
As well as clothing, Gordon said wool was used in brick making, as an insulator in computers and in fire-resistant uniforms.
If there’s one Indian celebrity whose fashion pulse has captivated international designers, it’s definitely actors Sonam Kapoor Ahuja enters the week with a deluge of ravishing photos from her latest shoot for a magazine. Whether it’s a patchwork wool jacket worth Rs 1.6 lakh from British designer Lee Alexander McQueen’s collection, chic Versace heels, a Hermes leather clutch or a Scottish Highland style that looks just right on the red carpet, Sonam Kapoor Ahuja knows how to dominate the fashion world with her looks. who hissed and the pictures were proof.
Taking to his Instagram account this Monday, Sonam set the fashion police on alert immediately as he drops one hot look after another and the social media world can’t keep his cool. The first set of photos features the diva in a patchwork wool jacket from Alexander McQueen dark blue and gray, paired with gray trousers. The jacket itself is worth £ 1,690 or Rs 1.66,453 and has a curvy neckline.
The hybrid double-collar one-button jacket features a lurex striped top and a Prince of Wales bottom with masculine shoulders and flap pockets. The trouser suit was adorned by Sonam with a ring from London Jeweler, David Morris.
In another series of images, Sonam praises autumn in Scottish Highlands style as only his inner fashionistas can. While in one picture, Sonam is in a stylish figure in a brown plaid coat and skirt paired with a mustard shirt inside and a pair of black stockings. Sonam complements the outfit with a pair of pointed leather heels with bling straps and a look accessory with a brown leather clutch from Hermes.
The following image is shown Zoya factor Star in a khaki and pink wool trench coat from Ralph & Russo whose modern style on a classic wardrobe is sandwiched with a touch of renewed elegance and enhanced creativity. The dress is tied at the waist with a cloth belt and paired with a pair of black leather boots from the Alexander McQueen collection.
Our favorite look, however, is the red and black plaid dress from Emilia Wickstead which comes with a white collar and cuffs and makes Sonam look like the epitome of modern femininity with its modern silhouette and use of strong colors, the easy combination of traditional with contemporary and its distinctive distinction. clear.
The images are enough to make us believe that Sonam can undoubtedly inspire the Indian version The devil is wearing prada modesty, fashion pulse and trend towards luxury brands.
Born and raised Breckenridge native, Jaxin Hoerter, spun off the wall of superpipes at Stomping Grounds Park in Saas-Fee, Switzerland, during the US Ski & Snowboard Team’s pre-season training in October. Photo from Stomping Grounds Park
Longmont native and Dillon resident Chase Blackwell takes the Never Summer plank above the Stomping Grounds Park superpipe in Saas-Fee, Switzerland, during US Ski & Snowboard Team’s pre-season training in October. Photo from Stomping Grounds Park
Winter Park native and Frisco resident Jason Wolle flips over a superpipe at Stomping Grounds Park in Saas-Fee, Switzerland, during US Ski & Snowboard Team pre-season training in October. Photo from Stomping Grounds Park
DILLON – On Wednesday evening in Saas-Fee, Switzerland, Frisco professional snowboarder and resident Jason Wolle said he took his final novel coronavirus test after a month of quarantine and traveling for the US pro and rookie teams of skiers and snowboards.
After entering the bubble in Park City, Utah, and testing negative several times, the athletes flew to Austria for a 10-day quarantine in Innsbruck. Finally, a crew of park and pipe athletes – including fellow Summit County-based snowboard and skiers Chase Blackwell and Jaxin Hoerter – returned to the snow at Stomping Grounds Park above the glaciers in Saas-Fee, but not until after several avalanches. and the danger of snow delays things a little.
Once on a world-class superpipe on a glacier, Wolle has gone to great lengths to try to land a double-cork front 1260 on the snow. Wolle has done a tough three-half-rotation, two inversion tricks in the airbags, and he hopes it will be an important part of running him through the halfpipe if the Copper Mountain Resort hosts the US Grand Prix World Cup competition. in December.
“The main thing about this trick is continuing your rotation,” said Wolle, a member of the rookie team. “It’s about not turning any less, because there’s the risk of your face hitting the deck.”
Wolle said he was impressed by how hard Blackwell worked to land the 1260 rear double cork.
“A lot about this trick looks like it’s all about timing and snapping your lips out of the way,” says Blackwell. “So it’s about figuring out the position of the body and the timing and how hard you have to throw it. The challenge I’ve faced so far with this trick is that once you’re in the air it feels a lot like doing backside 1080, but you have to keep looking and looking around and watching the landings. This definitely looks like less of a consequence. I’ve become bigger to have more time to rotate. “
Blackwell, a member of the professional team, said it was the next step for him after landing behind the 1080s at the Aspen X Games and at last season’s Laax Open.
“And I’ve done frontside 1260, and I’ve also started doing frontside double-cork 1260s, which is a new model for me. I did my first workout at Burton US Open, then I did it at Mount Hood, and then I did some here. “
Hoerter says his biggest focus is on adding a right-sided double cork to the 1260 to run it through the pipe. The skier, in his first year on the professional team, added that he and his coaches are discussing a new optimal path through the pipeline he could achieve in the first few competitions of the season.
“Last year, I had built ones that were running for a few years now, but this year is new,” said Hoerter. “I fell on the opposite wall, moving things. It’s a completely new situation that I haven’t been in, one that is exciting and fresh, and my coach is very happy to see this new combination. “
MILAN / SYDNEY / LONDON (Reuters) – Italian luxury designer Brunello Cucinelli makes men’s suits that sell for up to 7,000 euros ($ 8,200). But even he – like most people around the world – hasn’t worn a suit for months, let alone bought one.
“We are all locked up at home, so this is the first jacket I have worn since March,” Cucinelli told Reuters in Milan as he presented his new collection in September, wearing a light gray blazer.
Most people in “white collar” jobs work from home, with a newfound love for sweatpants, a trend some experts hope to outlast the pandemic. And few, if any, weddings or parties are taking place.
This seismic shift in behavior has had a profound impact across the supply chain for suits and formal wear, boosting a fashion sector that spans every continent.
In Australia, the world’s largest producer of merino wool, prices plummeted, reaching their lowest point in a decade. Many sheep breeders are in trouble, keeping wool in every pen that is available in hopes of recovering it.
In northern Italy, wool mills that buy from farmers and weave cloth for high-end suits have seen their own orders from retailers take a dip.
In the United States and Europe, several retail chains specializing in business apparel such as Men’s Wearhouse, Brooks Brothers, and TM Lewin have closed stores or filed for bankruptcy over the past few months, and many more could follow.
Players at all levels have told Reuters they are being forced to adapt to survive, from farmers turning to other forms of agriculture to factories making more elastic fabrics to new types of clothing that wrinkle less and are more resistant to stains.
“People want to be more comfortable and less inclined to wear formal suits,” said Silvio Botto Poala, managing director of Lanificio Botto Giuseppe, a wool factory at the textile center Biella Italia that counts Armani, Max Mara, Ralph Lauren and Hermes among its customers.
“With Zoom conferences and smart work, you will see men wearing shirts, maybe even ties, but not many suits.”
MERINO FARMERS UNDERWAY
The price of fine wool in Australia has more than halved during a turbulent 18-month period, as the usual healthy purchases of merino wool from Italian factories have almost stalled.
The benchmark price for merino wool fell to A $ 8.58 ($ 6.1) per kg in early September, auction results show, down from A $ 20.16 in early 2019. Since then, some have recovered to over A $ 10 .
Andrew Blanch, managing director of New England Wool in New South Wales, which sucks wool from farms for Italian textile makers, said many buyers now have excess supplies.
“They all have wool that needs to be thrown away before they even get back on the market here,” said Blanch, speaking by phone from a wool auction in Sydney’s western suburbs.
“If the shop doesn’t open, everyone just retreats. Many orders we buy from wool have recently been canceled by their clients in the US and throughout Europe. “
He said China, which along with Italy buys most of Australia’s annual wool exports for more than A $ 3 billion, is now “the only exhibition in town” although Chinese buyers are also getting less wool.
Many merino sheep breeders store their wool in sheds or storage facilities; although some people who are still emerging from a three-year drought sell their balances to weak markets in order to survive financially.
“Not everyone is big enough to hold their wool clips and wait for the prices to change,” said Dave Young, a farmer near the town of Yass in New South Wales. “We are in a position where we have to fill the market in a relatively short time after the price reduction.”
Young, who has about 4,500 sheep on his property, said he had refocused some operations to provide lamb.
WOL WEAVER GLOOM
The food chain is surging into northern Italy, and Botto Poala estimates his factory sales are down 25% from 63 million euros last year and they will take 2-3 years to recover.
However the business is isolated to some degree because most of it makes women’s clothing fabrics; others are more pessimistic.
“For some businesses, we are talking about a 50% -80% drop in sales,” said Ettore Piacenza, general manager of the Fratelli Piacenza wool factory, a centuries-old family business with an annual turnover of 52 million euros. He also heads the wool mill department of a local business association.
Botto Poala says more than 50% of his mill’s turnover now comes from wool which has been made more elastic by tilling it or adding lycra to it.
This is because whatever demand remains for a suit, it is more likely for fabrics that are more stain resistant and less wrinkled, while such fabrics can also be used for casual wear, the wool mill said.
Italian luxury label Etro, for example, recently launched a “24 hour jacket” made of jersey and combining wool and cotton.
‘MY CLIENT IS AT PJs’
The gradual movement towards casual clothing has been taking place over the years. In 2019, even Goldman Sachs – a bastion of custom-made suits – relaxed the dress code for its staff. Not to mention the rise of Silicon Valley’s hipsters.
But COVID has stepped up that change – increasing sales of comfortable and sportswear at the expense of business wear.
In the second quarter of this year, when much of the world was locked in, Nike became the hottest brand according to Lyst, a global fashion search platform that analyzes the behavior of more than nine million online shoppers every month.
This is the first time since the Lyst Index began that a luxury fashion brand has not occupied the top position.
Gap’s Athleta unit, which sells tights, jogging pants, sweaters and tracksuits, was the best performing fashion line in the three months to August 1. Sales were up 6%, compared to a 52% drop at Banana Republic, which is known for its more stylish outfits.
Clothing was ranked among the items with the highest discounts and lowest sales in France, Italy and Germany in September, according to data compiled by StyleSage, which combs prices on websites.
Cheaper labels for mid-market including Asos, Topman, Guess and Hugo Boss had the sharpest price drops, up to 50%.
Falling demand for office clothing led to a multistory of US retailers, also including Jos. A. Bank and J. Crew, filed for bankruptcy during the summer and more retailers face an uncertain future.
Retail consultancy Coresight Research estimates that 20,000 to 25,000 US stores could close by the end of the year, compared with around 9,800 in 2019.
“I admit I haven’t bought office clothes this year. “I can tell you the fact that walking around the City, there are very few lawsuits on display,” said James Whitaker, a partner at the law firm Mayer Brown in London.
Indeed business has been “very slow” even since the late closure of the company for Jasper Littman, a tailor trained on Savile Row, a famous London street for tailoring for men.
Littman said his clients, mostly lawyers and bankers, “sit at home in pajamas”.
She usually makes about 200 outfits a year, but has only made 63 so far in 2020.
Customers are reluctant to take the risk of taking the train to pick up even a suit that has been made with the deposit paid.
“There’s no point in them doing that, because they’ll be getting a coat they can’t wear.”
Reporting by Silvia Aloisi in Milan, Jonathan Barrett in Sydney and Martinne Geller in London; Additional reporting by Jill Gralow, Carolyn Cohn and Aleksandra Michalska; Edited by Pravin Char
Australian sliding contractors and wool producers worry about the lack of a national shaver with the closing of the COVID-19 border and travel restrictions, making it difficult for New Zealand shavers to enter the country.
Every August an incoming wave of 500 shearers from New Zealand arrives in Australia for spring shear – but not this year.
They handled at least seven million sheep for three months and returned to New Zealand for their own season in December.
Extension of the season creates problems
Secretary of the Australian Shearing Contractors’ Association (SCAA) Jason Letchford said the lack of shadowing labor was a major concern for the industry.
“We are really in a desperate situation to get sheared sheep this year in the spring,” Ms Letchford said.
He said if the sheep were not shaved on time, the season would be extended, which would cause financial losses for producers and also pose a risk to animal welfare.
“If you don’t have good farming practices, you lose your assets,” he said.
SCAA is working with the Department of Agriculture, Home Affairs and the state government to find an agreement on New Zealand shavers coming to Australia.
Letchford believes a fast and appropriate solution is needed.
“I realize that the government is running a very narrow path between security and keeping the virus at stake, but there are jobs and commercial problems at stake,” he said.
“That can’t just be a holistic approach where we rotate taps in one area and that has unintended consequences in other industries.
“At this point an entry of $ 3,000 for quarantine and actually passing through an Australian port makes it look like no one can find it.”
Letchford said with the drought breaking out in many parts of Australia, the national sheep herd will only surge from 65 million heads now because farmers want to rebuild and maintain more stock and more shearers needed.
Shear delays risk to animal health
Craig Gilbert, who runs the Woolaway Contract Shearing in Naracoorte, South Australia, is concerned he might not be able to secure a full workforce if the agreement for NZ shavers entering Australia does not change.
His efforts bring half of his staff into the area as seasonal workers from abroad and abroad, but he may have to work with a framework workforce and ask farmers for more flexible sliding arrangements.
“We really don’t have the number of shavers in Australia to cover all of that to complete it within the time frame needed by farmers,” Gilbert said.
“It’s not just as you can say we will shave your sheep in December rather than October. Of course the season changes, and it gets a little hotter, animals can suffer from grass seeds, they can suffer flies, and it’s sad for animals that. “
He felt “somewhat frustrated” to see New Zealand shavers refusing to enter Australia and believed that the Department of Agriculture needed to improve and understand the importance of shavers coming from New Zealand, which is now a COVID-19 free country.
One cannot learn to shear sheep last night
Letchford realized that many Australians were not working because of COVID-19 and were looking for work. Cutting is still a skilled trade that must be learned from time to time.
“We do welcome people in the industry but the reality is you will not be able to pick it up overnight, so we will not be able to train Virgin flight people to become shaves suddenly,” Letchford said. .
“People come to this industry and start working on their own and we will like it, and there is a lot of training available for that.”
However, he did not know of anyone from the industry affected by COVID-19 who tried to enter the shear and wool handling industry.
“It is frustrating that we cannot easily access workers in New Zealand.”
New Zealand is also worried about the lack of shavers themselves
But it’s not just the Australian sliding warehouse that is short on staff.
The New Zealand industry is also worried about labor shortages for its peak season from November to March, when hair shavers from Australia and the UK usually flock to the country.
President of the New Zealand Slide Association Mark Barrowcliffe said the delay of their season was on the cards and despite talks with their Immigration Department there was an additional challenge to bringing shears overseas to the country.
“We want to do it faithfully for our employees and countries wherever they come or go.”
While the industry remains hopeful about their discussions with the Immigration Department, Mr Barrowcliffe said they also improved local goods to partially prevent a looming shortage.
However, with the situation of New Zealand shavers heading to Australia, he believes there is a ‘greater reluctance’ of workers due to the increasing cases of corona virus in Australia.
“We are a very family-oriented industry, so once you move from your current family, you cannot immediately return if something happens, and the family that comes first will definitely take care of some people at home,” he said.
The decision rests with the Border Commissioner
The Australian Government’s Department of Agriculture, Water and Environment said in a statement given to ABC that Australia’s WoolProducers (WPA) and National Farmers’ Federation (NFF) had identified the need for more than 480 New Zealand shavers and seasonal shedhand for July. -November.
“The department recognizes that the wool industry has traditionally used mobile workers, including groups who have moved from New Zealand to Australia for most workers and that prolonged delays in shaving can cause serious problems with animal welfare, on commercial impacts for wool producers, “the statement said.
WPA and the NFF are seeking support for New Zealand shavers and homeowners to enter Australia using an exemption from the Australian Border Commissioner.
In the statement, the Department of Agriculture said, at this time when the Australian border was closed, the only way to get workers was for travelers to seek release from the Australian Border Commissioner based on workers who provided critical skills.
“In the end, this is the decision of the Australian Border Commissioner to approve or disapprove border liberation.”
The movement of workers between various countries is governed by the country’s health directives, the statement said.
“It is important that prospective workers and employers understand the requirements before they travel.”
“The feedback from the industry to the department is that the recent closure of the border, in general, is well managed and does not cause significant difficulties.”